We arrived home late last night after a day of travel that went on and on and on and on ... we're tired but well.
Settling in at home, happy to have the opportunity to choose what to wear based on what we feel like wearing rather than which clothes smell the least ... and doing laundry.
Our kitty Robin seems happy that we're home and is snoozing on the couch, the yard is a verdant jungle of green, the hawthorne is in full deep pink bloom and bustling with small yellow warblers - it's been cool and wet most of the month we've been away - and our home is in welcoming good shape thanks to our house sitters Jacquie and Brent.
At the moment, we're listening to a CD of Galician celtic bagpipe music to stay in the glow of Spanish time-space, and looking forward to grocery shopping later this afternoon to make a salad for dinner!
Hope to have some photos to share in the next few days.
Feeling grateful for the wonderful adventure we've had, and trusting the Camino will continue ...
p.s. As we left the Vancouver airport last night to board our final flight home, I spied a fellow traveller wearing a sweatshirt with the Camino flecha amarilla (yellow arrow). I remembered seeing him and a woman who I thought might be his mom walking for the last few days as I headed towards Santiago. I said hello, and told him I too was just returning from the Camino. He smiled BIG, and we wished each other "Buen Camino!"
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Santiago Highlights
Attending the Pilgrims´ mass at the enormous Cathedral de Santiago along with 1200-1500 others and experiencing the welcoming energy of the presiding Bishop, seeing the botafumeiro, and hearing the role call of pilgrims who had arrived the day before ... which included 2 Canadians!
Visiting the Museo de Peregrinacion (Museum of Pilgrimage) and seeing beautiful black and white photos of "Pure Christianity" of pilgrims in Eritrea and Ethiopia (where Allison visited in 1997)
Talking and laughing with the young woman in the Panideria & Dulces who wanted to practice her English while we practiced our Spanish trying to buy donuts
The still warm, sugary, oily Donuts!
Talking and laughing with the woman in the Galegos Productos store about buying and how to cook "Ortegas" (stinging nettles) which we bought and will eat when we get home (see Allison´s post below about landing in a ditch full of nettles).
Meeting and talking with Esteban (who took great joy in practicing his English) in the Celtic Rugy Shop that sold kilts, where Allison bought a New Zealand Rugby shirt made in Espana!
Finding non-smoking restaurants, including enjoying our first tapas lunch, and our first bocadillo (sandwich) that included mayonasa (with pollo, tomate and lechuga) yummy
Watching two 8-9 year old boys play hide and seek in the Recantos Bar at beer o´clock
Seeing generations, families out walking, eating, laughing together
Seeing a photo exhibit and video "Regresso a Orixe" portraying pilgrimage in Jerusalem, Rome & Santiago by Manuel Valcarcel commisioned by Galicia for this 2010 Holy Year on the Camino - inspiring, beautiful, moved to tears
Pouring rain, flowing off rooftops and out of the mouths of gargoyles
Seeing, recognizing and embracing fellow walkers, pilgrims, amongst the throngs of thousands of tourists in this holy medieval city
Thinking that I had accidentally erased the more than 1000 photos that we had taken, crying my eyes out, and then discovering I hadn´t ... (It´s a long story)
Witnessing the excitment of the German priest, a fellow pilgrim, who spoke at the mass we attended, when the 60 kg incense-burning botafumeiro was lit and swung like a pendulum by 8 attendants more than 60 feet in the air ...
Sunshine and cafes con leche at outdoor cafes on this our final day in Spain!
We´ll be home late tomorrow night.
With love,
Diane and Allison
Visiting the Museo de Peregrinacion (Museum of Pilgrimage) and seeing beautiful black and white photos of "Pure Christianity" of pilgrims in Eritrea and Ethiopia (where Allison visited in 1997)
Talking and laughing with the young woman in the Panideria & Dulces who wanted to practice her English while we practiced our Spanish trying to buy donuts
The still warm, sugary, oily Donuts!
Talking and laughing with the woman in the Galegos Productos store about buying and how to cook "Ortegas" (stinging nettles) which we bought and will eat when we get home (see Allison´s post below about landing in a ditch full of nettles).
Meeting and talking with Esteban (who took great joy in practicing his English) in the Celtic Rugy Shop that sold kilts, where Allison bought a New Zealand Rugby shirt made in Espana!
Finding non-smoking restaurants, including enjoying our first tapas lunch, and our first bocadillo (sandwich) that included mayonasa (with pollo, tomate and lechuga) yummy
Watching two 8-9 year old boys play hide and seek in the Recantos Bar at beer o´clock
Seeing generations, families out walking, eating, laughing together
Seeing a photo exhibit and video "Regresso a Orixe" portraying pilgrimage in Jerusalem, Rome & Santiago by Manuel Valcarcel commisioned by Galicia for this 2010 Holy Year on the Camino - inspiring, beautiful, moved to tears
Pouring rain, flowing off rooftops and out of the mouths of gargoyles
Seeing, recognizing and embracing fellow walkers, pilgrims, amongst the throngs of thousands of tourists in this holy medieval city
Thinking that I had accidentally erased the more than 1000 photos that we had taken, crying my eyes out, and then discovering I hadn´t ... (It´s a long story)
Witnessing the excitment of the German priest, a fellow pilgrim, who spoke at the mass we attended, when the 60 kg incense-burning botafumeiro was lit and swung like a pendulum by 8 attendants more than 60 feet in the air ...
Sunshine and cafes con leche at outdoor cafes on this our final day in Spain!
We´ll be home late tomorrow night.
With love,
Diane and Allison
Monday, May 24, 2010
Santiago
We made it.
Diane arrived mid day with sore feet and high spirits to meet me at the Porto de Camino. Together we walked in to the Cathedral which felt like a good way to draw to an end the walking part of this experience. It is impossible to find the words to describe the place. Just big big huge.
There is much to explore and enjoy.
Tonight though is a time to rest; tomorrow Pilgrim´s mass at the Cathedral.
The Camino continues...
Diane arrived mid day with sore feet and high spirits to meet me at the Porto de Camino. Together we walked in to the Cathedral which felt like a good way to draw to an end the walking part of this experience. It is impossible to find the words to describe the place. Just big big huge.
There is much to explore and enjoy.
Tonight though is a time to rest; tomorrow Pilgrim´s mass at the Cathedral.
The Camino continues...
Sunday, May 23, 2010
One More Day ... Walking to Santiago
Alone this evening in Arca Do Pino ... 20 km from Santiago
after having had dinner with two women from Hungary
and, after they left, two men from Finland
... friends on the Camino.
Allison and I will meet tomorrow at noon
at the gate to the medieval city, then walk together
to the Cathedral de Santigo.
I am giving thanks and wondering
about the gift, blessing and significance
of this time of walking ... of communion
with fellow pilgrims from all over the world,
with the land and people of Spain along the Camino.
Giving thanks.
What if the actual remains of James the Apostle
are entombed in the Cathedral de Santiago?
Does the answer to this question matter?
What if ... this patron Saint of Spain, this friend and follower of Jesus - the man, the Spirit, God - is calling out to those who will listen?
What call will I hear?
There has been time on the Camino,
there will be time in Santiago,
and at home
to listen.
With love and gratitude for friends and family at home,
and Camino friends along the way, those we´ve met
and those we´ve yet to meet.
And to my family - Guck for the Guck!
(I love you)
Talk to you soon,
Diane
after having had dinner with two women from Hungary
and, after they left, two men from Finland
... friends on the Camino.
Allison and I will meet tomorrow at noon
at the gate to the medieval city, then walk together
to the Cathedral de Santigo.
I am giving thanks and wondering
about the gift, blessing and significance
of this time of walking ... of communion
with fellow pilgrims from all over the world,
with the land and people of Spain along the Camino.
Giving thanks.
What if the actual remains of James the Apostle
are entombed in the Cathedral de Santiago?
Does the answer to this question matter?
What if ... this patron Saint of Spain, this friend and follower of Jesus - the man, the Spirit, God - is calling out to those who will listen?
What call will I hear?
There has been time on the Camino,
there will be time in Santiago,
and at home
to listen.
With love and gratitude for friends and family at home,
and Camino friends along the way, those we´ve met
and those we´ve yet to meet.
And to my family - Guck for the Guck!
(I love you)
Talk to you soon,
Diane
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Arzua
Watching from the restfull shelter of this cafe
a stream of pigrims
steadily passing
- or unsteadily passing -
with heavy backpacks,
wide brimmed hats,
high tech walking poles,
hand-carved sticks,
ball caps, berets, crutches, without bags, with eye shadow,
wilting under the sun -
bearded, smooth, smoking, perfumed, cell phone ringing,
or silent -
with crosses, shells, badges, pins, buttons, beads,
guitars,
bicycles,
horses,
donkeys
some determined, some drifters
some shuffle, some sprint
some linger in a wisp of shade
some race on to the next day.
They pray in 800 year old places
with quiet
they pray in bars with tv blarring
with beer -
they go in groups
they go alone
they sing, write, talk talk talk talk talk
laugh
cry.
There is no thing in all these lives which is the same -
except for this Camino
and this day.
And this is profoundly unifying.
and this is Good.
And now my Camino is
to be
a witness.
And this, too,
is Good.
a stream of pigrims
steadily passing
- or unsteadily passing -
with heavy backpacks,
wide brimmed hats,
high tech walking poles,
hand-carved sticks,
ball caps, berets, crutches, without bags, with eye shadow,
wilting under the sun -
bearded, smooth, smoking, perfumed, cell phone ringing,
or silent -
with crosses, shells, badges, pins, buttons, beads,
guitars,
bicycles,
horses,
donkeys
some determined, some drifters
some shuffle, some sprint
some linger in a wisp of shade
some race on to the next day.
They pray in 800 year old places
with quiet
they pray in bars with tv blarring
with beer -
they go in groups
they go alone
they sing, write, talk talk talk talk talk
laugh
cry.
There is no thing in all these lives which is the same -
except for this Camino
and this day.
And this is profoundly unifying.
and this is Good.
And now my Camino is
to be
a witness.
And this, too,
is Good.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Our Santiagos
Three days ago we walked through cool early morning, mountain mist on stone-wall lined paths, over streams, past abandoned grist mills, from Triacastela to Samos. We wanted to visit the Monasterio de Samos, despite the extra 6.5 km required by this route. The Monastery is one of the oldest continously inhabited monasteries in the ¨western world¨, with one of the largest grounds and enclosed garden cloisters in Spain.
After a 3 hour walk, and revived by cafes con leche and croissants, we toured this centuries old place of contemplation and Benedictine devotion, and attempted to imagine the lives and spiritual pratices of the resident brothers ...
Souls stirred, that afternoon we walked, followed the yellow arrows that mark the length of the Camino, along country paths, across farmers´ fields, through tiny villages. It was very hot and we were out of water, and we wondered in frustration if we had somehow lost the trail or if John Brierly´s guidebook (which had been excellent to this point) had suddenly failed us. Walking up yet another hill, sprayed in red lettering on the pavement was the question, ¨What is Your Santiago?¨
We finally arrived, late, hot and tired in Sarria. After finding a place to stay (all the albergues were full), with tears over our dinners of Ensalada Mixta, Allison told me about the ¨Ah, ha¨ she had had late that afternoon when she was struggling to continue walking.
She had realized that her Santiago, her soul truth, was that she needed to stop walking, to rest, to take care of herself. Later in the hotel room, we both cried, realizing that our walking together needed to come to an end. We brainstormed possibilities (because that´s what we do, including the possibility of us both quitting and going to Majorca to lie on the beach for a week), but in the end, we decided that it is impotçrtant that we both meet our needs for this time.
So ... Allison has stopped walking and I have continued. Together we walked 417 km. For the past two days I have walked without her (49 km), but not alone, as the Camino is filled with pilgrims, many who have just strarted in Sarria. She has taken a bus each day and has gone ahead to find a place for us to stay.
Three more days , 69 km, and we will be in Santiago.
The walking is good for my soul.
The resting is good for Allison.
Together, in our own ways, we will complete our Caminos de Santiago.
After a 3 hour walk, and revived by cafes con leche and croissants, we toured this centuries old place of contemplation and Benedictine devotion, and attempted to imagine the lives and spiritual pratices of the resident brothers ...
Souls stirred, that afternoon we walked, followed the yellow arrows that mark the length of the Camino, along country paths, across farmers´ fields, through tiny villages. It was very hot and we were out of water, and we wondered in frustration if we had somehow lost the trail or if John Brierly´s guidebook (which had been excellent to this point) had suddenly failed us. Walking up yet another hill, sprayed in red lettering on the pavement was the question, ¨What is Your Santiago?¨
We finally arrived, late, hot and tired in Sarria. After finding a place to stay (all the albergues were full), with tears over our dinners of Ensalada Mixta, Allison told me about the ¨Ah, ha¨ she had had late that afternoon when she was struggling to continue walking.
She had realized that her Santiago, her soul truth, was that she needed to stop walking, to rest, to take care of herself. Later in the hotel room, we both cried, realizing that our walking together needed to come to an end. We brainstormed possibilities (because that´s what we do, including the possibility of us both quitting and going to Majorca to lie on the beach for a week), but in the end, we decided that it is impotçrtant that we both meet our needs for this time.
So ... Allison has stopped walking and I have continued. Together we walked 417 km. For the past two days I have walked without her (49 km), but not alone, as the Camino is filled with pilgrims, many who have just strarted in Sarria. She has taken a bus each day and has gone ahead to find a place for us to stay.
Three more days , 69 km, and we will be in Santiago.
The walking is good for my soul.
The resting is good for Allison.
Together, in our own ways, we will complete our Caminos de Santiago.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Signs and Guides
There are so many things to be grateful for on this path. So many in each day.
A few days ago after 28 blistering kilometres along a busy highway, transport trucks blowing by, and busy people going somewhere important in a hurry, we sat on an ancient stone wall in a wee town to consult.
My feet told me stop. My hot head told me keep going 1.2 more kilometres to our 'destination'. Into this delerious haze and out of the long hot rays of the late afternoon sun came first a voice, then a gesture waving us back, then a person.
A lovely French pilgrim fellow we had had a meal with two days earlier saw us pass by, was worried for us, and came out of the place he was staying to make sure we went no further.
Saved yet again.
Sometimes saying thank you isn't enough, but it is all I have.
So I will say it as often as I can.
A few days ago after 28 blistering kilometres along a busy highway, transport trucks blowing by, and busy people going somewhere important in a hurry, we sat on an ancient stone wall in a wee town to consult.
My feet told me stop. My hot head told me keep going 1.2 more kilometres to our 'destination'. Into this delerious haze and out of the long hot rays of the late afternoon sun came first a voice, then a gesture waving us back, then a person.
A lovely French pilgrim fellow we had had a meal with two days earlier saw us pass by, was worried for us, and came out of the place he was staying to make sure we went no further.
Saved yet again.
Sometimes saying thank you isn't enough, but it is all I have.
So I will say it as often as I can.
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
From one extreme to another
I have lost track of what day it is, except that Santiago in getting closer and I am getting tireder. We have arrived safely and sun coloured in Sarria. This is the place a ton of people begin their walk becasue it is about 100 km from here to Santiago and so it is the last place to begin and still 'qualify' for a Compostella - the certificate which says "You did it!"
Within the space of a night the weather switched from long johns to shorts and t-shirt. This is good and a great relifef from the bone chilling cold and damp. Now we are having to figure out our sun protection instead of keeping everything dry. It has been in the low thirties for 3 days now.
There are many things on the walk which are outside of our control and this is a part of the pilgrimage for sure. We don't know where we will eat, where we will sleep, or where we will fnd rest stops along the way. We assume we need to carry water for the whole day in case the fountains and wells are dry or not drinkable. All this is challenging and tiring in its way, but manageable with a little effort and planning. It is amazing how good a stale-ish hunk of bread tastes when hungry, and warm-ish water finishes the meal nicely!
However; one of the hardest things to manage is knowing that there will likely not be a toilet in the moments when we may need one most.
Yesterday in a rather desparate moment, knowing the next town was too far to be of help, I quickly jumped into a ditch on the side of the dirt track with a quick look to make sure no one was coming.
The stinging pain on my calves told me this may not have been a good choice. Turned out to be a patch of thorny brambles and stinging nettle. The welts on my legs and forearms have calmed, the numbness in one stung finger is finished. Learning: no matter how desperate - look before I leap.
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Learning to rest ...
Going slow and getting stronger ... Hmmm?
For many many days, we walked despite the COLD and WET (and Colds and Coughs). In Rabanal, despite the urge to persvere, we decided to rest. We took a full day off, stayed at a hotel and slept and slept, and rested our bruised and battered feet from the previous day´s 30 km walk. It was hard to stop, but it was a good decision.
Today we walked again, 26 km, and the sun broke through the clouds and warmed us ... but not before we had climbed to the highest point on the Camino at 1560 m, rose through verdant green hills, ice fog, sleet and rain (ice clinging to hillsides covered in purple heather), and then walked into foggy forlorn Foncebadon to find one of the most welcoming Albergues we have encountered. A group of hospitaleros offering gracious and welcoming hospitality with a strong undercurrent of world spirituality to unite the people of the nations. Strong hot coffee, biscuits, granola, and fruit all available for a donativo. The small living area with a warm wood fire was filled with 35-40 shivering pilgrims laughing and smiling, glad to get in out of the 1 degree cold outside, and to experience such gracious warmth.
Later this same day we encountered a modern day Knight Templar, descended down the mountains on rock covered pathways, and walked amidst hills covered with wild lavender and hibiscus, and passed by an ancient chestnut grove.
The Rest of yesterday helped us soak up the gentle and amazing glory of today.
Thanks for reading - we are having an amazing time, and appreciate your comments and support!
Love,
For many many days, we walked despite the COLD and WET (and Colds and Coughs). In Rabanal, despite the urge to persvere, we decided to rest. We took a full day off, stayed at a hotel and slept and slept, and rested our bruised and battered feet from the previous day´s 30 km walk. It was hard to stop, but it was a good decision.
Today we walked again, 26 km, and the sun broke through the clouds and warmed us ... but not before we had climbed to the highest point on the Camino at 1560 m, rose through verdant green hills, ice fog, sleet and rain (ice clinging to hillsides covered in purple heather), and then walked into foggy forlorn Foncebadon to find one of the most welcoming Albergues we have encountered. A group of hospitaleros offering gracious and welcoming hospitality with a strong undercurrent of world spirituality to unite the people of the nations. Strong hot coffee, biscuits, granola, and fruit all available for a donativo. The small living area with a warm wood fire was filled with 35-40 shivering pilgrims laughing and smiling, glad to get in out of the 1 degree cold outside, and to experience such gracious warmth.
Later this same day we encountered a modern day Knight Templar, descended down the mountains on rock covered pathways, and walked amidst hills covered with wild lavender and hibiscus, and passed by an ancient chestnut grove.
The Rest of yesterday helped us soak up the gentle and amazing glory of today.
Thanks for reading - we are having an amazing time, and appreciate your comments and support!
Love,
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Coffee with Jesus
It went like this:
rain all day
misty beautiful hills
pathway washed out
pick our way carefully over streams of rain, stones, rocks, sand....oh my,
gore tex couldn´t keep out the wet,
kilometre 23 sat under an Holm Oak on the ground
sighed over peanuts
crested the mountain,
very broken down lone casa in view -
red tile roof and mud brick walls mostly caved in,
closer, closer, closer
man emerges from the darkness of the open doorway -
looks like poster of Jesus -
Invites us in,
offers coffee, hot -
and figs and dates and raisins and nuts and biscuits and toasts and juice
and a true heart -
"Canada! Welcome!
This is your house."
I drank the good hot coffee, cried.
Only six more kilometers.
made possible by coffee with Jesus.
500 meters later:
a Shepherd,
and 100 sheep and lambs,
and a few dogs, pass by.
Perhaps there were only 99, I didn't have time to count.
Yes - Jesus and a shepherd all on the same wet misty hillside.
Buen Camino.
rain all day
misty beautiful hills
pathway washed out
pick our way carefully over streams of rain, stones, rocks, sand....oh my,
gore tex couldn´t keep out the wet,
kilometre 23 sat under an Holm Oak on the ground
sighed over peanuts
crested the mountain,
very broken down lone casa in view -
red tile roof and mud brick walls mostly caved in,
closer, closer, closer
man emerges from the darkness of the open doorway -
looks like poster of Jesus -
Invites us in,
offers coffee, hot -
and figs and dates and raisins and nuts and biscuits and toasts and juice
and a true heart -
"Canada! Welcome!
This is your house."
I drank the good hot coffee, cried.
Only six more kilometers.
made possible by coffee with Jesus.
500 meters later:
a Shepherd,
and 100 sheep and lambs,
and a few dogs, pass by.
Perhaps there were only 99, I didn't have time to count.
Yes - Jesus and a shepherd all on the same wet misty hillside.
Buen Camino.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Villar de Mazariff
Yesterday we left the brilliant morning sunshine of Burgos, boarded a bus and travelled into overcast skies that became darker and darker as we approached Leon. As we left the Estacion de Autobuses after arriving in Leon, it began to rain and continued after we had found a room as the Hostal Orejas, ate a late lunch of ciabata, cheese, olives and spinach, and then went out on the town for needed supplies.
We successfully bought warm tights for Allison, a pair of hiking pants for Diane (I had brought only one pair of pants thinking it would be warm enough most days to walk in shorts!), stamps for postcards, throat lozenges (both of us have had colds and coughs but we´re almost all better now ...), toured the old town and Cathedral, and then ran through town to find the Santa Maria de Carbajalas Convent to attend a Benedictine Nuns sung evening vespers service that was like stepping back in time some 500 to 600 years. Hauntingly beautiful and our first experience of a Spanish mass.
Today, after spending time and money yesterday looking for warm clothes, the morning cold turned to warmth and sunshine as we walked 24 km across the meseta.
We may find more cold weather yet ... In two days we will walk over the highest point in the Camino at 1500 m, and later we have chilly Galicia to look forward to.
Did we mention that it has so far been the COLDEST May in 100 years in Spain!
We are glad to be walking again; after only one day off it felt like we had taken a long break from the open skies and paths of the Camino.
Looking forward to our first longer day tomorrow when we will walk 30 km heading to Astorga.
a Dios,
We successfully bought warm tights for Allison, a pair of hiking pants for Diane (I had brought only one pair of pants thinking it would be warm enough most days to walk in shorts!), stamps for postcards, throat lozenges (both of us have had colds and coughs but we´re almost all better now ...), toured the old town and Cathedral, and then ran through town to find the Santa Maria de Carbajalas Convent to attend a Benedictine Nuns sung evening vespers service that was like stepping back in time some 500 to 600 years. Hauntingly beautiful and our first experience of a Spanish mass.
Today, after spending time and money yesterday looking for warm clothes, the morning cold turned to warmth and sunshine as we walked 24 km across the meseta.
We may find more cold weather yet ... In two days we will walk over the highest point in the Camino at 1500 m, and later we have chilly Galicia to look forward to.
Did we mention that it has so far been the COLDEST May in 100 years in Spain!
We are glad to be walking again; after only one day off it felt like we had taken a long break from the open skies and paths of the Camino.
Looking forward to our first longer day tomorrow when we will walk 30 km heading to Astorga.
a Dios,
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Burgos
We are in Burgos. After walking 20 km today, in 13 degree weather with a battering west wind that at times felt like it would knock us off our feet, and the last 8 km on the hard paved streets and tiled sidewalks of the city´s suburbs, we arrived in the old town centre of this city of 175,000.
Today we left behind many friends we have made along the way; tomorrow we will bus ahead to Leon so that we can reach Santiago by May 23 or 24 to have a few days rest and time to explore the city before we leave there on the 27th: Anni and Jean-Luc from France who we found ourselves with in the same place time and time again, and with whom we shared many meals and wonderful and strange french-english conversation with lots of laughs and talking with our hands and faces, Uta and HannahLaura from Germany, Filiz from Turkey, Agnes from Jamaica/Switzerland, Horst and Manfried from Germany, Charlotte from South Africa/Germany, and Mary from near Seattle who we met and ate with almost every day for the past week.
Two days ago we spent the afternoon in the small lobby of a beautiful 14th century refurbished hotel in Villanfranca trying to stay warm with cafe con leches and, a brandy while the wind blew and the rain poured down outside! We stayed in the unheated pilgrims´ albergue at the rear of this luxury hotel. We shared the afternoon and had wonderful far-reaching conversation about gardening and Obama, obesity and good nutrition, world religions and politics with Charlotte (67, originally from South Africa and now living in Germany), and Filiz (35 from Turkey, who we discovered was passionate about permaculture, the art of hosting, sustainability, and who has travelled extensively and has attended workshops with Margaret Wheatley and Christina Baldwin!)
And today, after walking a total of 220 km, we are in Burgos. This afternoon we visited the enormous and beautiful Catedral de Burgos, a world heritage site; ornate, filled with story and art, and 21 chapels ...
The story of the origin of our species yesterday in Atapuerca where they have discovered the oldest human remains in Europe - 1,000,000 years old, the history and telling of the Christian story in Burgos today, and yesterday, and again today, we met two men from Canada, one from Canmore whose close friends have been encouraging him to come to Naramata Centre for years, and the other from Toronto; both have gone on birding trips with Dick Cannings, from Naramata. It is an incredibly large and small world.
On the Camino we have encountered and walked spontaneous spiral labyrinths, made by pilgrims from stones. Our lives spiral in tight and out again.
And yes seester and brothers, mom is with me and I am thinking of her and dad most days. I made a special journal to take with me on the Camino, and I have a picture of mom with me. She is in my heart, especially today on mother´s day.
Small children and almost ALL of the more than 100 runners in a 10 km run who passed us today called out Buen Camino, and touched our outreached hands as they went by.
It is good luck to touch a Peregrino, especially one who is lost.
A Dios ...
Today we left behind many friends we have made along the way; tomorrow we will bus ahead to Leon so that we can reach Santiago by May 23 or 24 to have a few days rest and time to explore the city before we leave there on the 27th: Anni and Jean-Luc from France who we found ourselves with in the same place time and time again, and with whom we shared many meals and wonderful and strange french-english conversation with lots of laughs and talking with our hands and faces, Uta and HannahLaura from Germany, Filiz from Turkey, Agnes from Jamaica/Switzerland, Horst and Manfried from Germany, Charlotte from South Africa/Germany, and Mary from near Seattle who we met and ate with almost every day for the past week.
Two days ago we spent the afternoon in the small lobby of a beautiful 14th century refurbished hotel in Villanfranca trying to stay warm with cafe con leches and, a brandy while the wind blew and the rain poured down outside! We stayed in the unheated pilgrims´ albergue at the rear of this luxury hotel. We shared the afternoon and had wonderful far-reaching conversation about gardening and Obama, obesity and good nutrition, world religions and politics with Charlotte (67, originally from South Africa and now living in Germany), and Filiz (35 from Turkey, who we discovered was passionate about permaculture, the art of hosting, sustainability, and who has travelled extensively and has attended workshops with Margaret Wheatley and Christina Baldwin!)
And today, after walking a total of 220 km, we are in Burgos. This afternoon we visited the enormous and beautiful Catedral de Burgos, a world heritage site; ornate, filled with story and art, and 21 chapels ...
The story of the origin of our species yesterday in Atapuerca where they have discovered the oldest human remains in Europe - 1,000,000 years old, the history and telling of the Christian story in Burgos today, and yesterday, and again today, we met two men from Canada, one from Canmore whose close friends have been encouraging him to come to Naramata Centre for years, and the other from Toronto; both have gone on birding trips with Dick Cannings, from Naramata. It is an incredibly large and small world.
On the Camino we have encountered and walked spontaneous spiral labyrinths, made by pilgrims from stones. Our lives spiral in tight and out again.
And yes seester and brothers, mom is with me and I am thinking of her and dad most days. I made a special journal to take with me on the Camino, and I have a picture of mom with me. She is in my heart, especially today on mother´s day.
Small children and almost ALL of the more than 100 runners in a 10 km run who passed us today called out Buen Camino, and touched our outreached hands as they went by.
It is good luck to touch a Peregrino, especially one who is lost.
A Dios ...
Saturday, May 8, 2010
hard days and more
some days are hard days.
some days are soft days.
the day before yesterday was a hard one for me. In every way it was a challenge - physically, mentally, emotionally, spiritually.
Physically I was struggling with a cold in my nose, and the cold in the weather, plus my leg muscles seized up after only about 10 kilometers. Every step was excruciating.
Mentally I was finding it hard to just stay in the present and I kept on hoping that the destination place would be around the next corner - it finally was, but after about a hundred corners it seemed.
Emotionally I felt exhausted by the effort of communicating.
Spriritually I persisted in resisting offers of help from Diane.
I was stuck in a frame of mind that was saying to myself:
"You have to do this yourself. Everyone has hard days - get over yourself. Other people need help, but you have to do this on your own."
After Diane asked, and encouraged, and finally demanded that I stop and figure out what was happening I began to be able to quiet those voices and receive her help.
She ended up carrying my pack and hers for about 4 kilometers to our final destination. I could not have walked any further with it myself, and I hobbled those final steps to the albergue.
That night we took a private room in a small albergue instead of a group room.
The next day was a soft day. Gentle walking, gentle hills, gentle rain, still as cold but somehow more bearable. But most of all I was gentle with myself.
Some lessons have to be learned over and over and over - at least for me. Perhaps for you?
We have arrived in a beautiful town today called Atapuerca. You can find it on a map! It is a Unesco World Heritage site.
some days are soft days.
the day before yesterday was a hard one for me. In every way it was a challenge - physically, mentally, emotionally, spiritually.
Physically I was struggling with a cold in my nose, and the cold in the weather, plus my leg muscles seized up after only about 10 kilometers. Every step was excruciating.
Mentally I was finding it hard to just stay in the present and I kept on hoping that the destination place would be around the next corner - it finally was, but after about a hundred corners it seemed.
Emotionally I felt exhausted by the effort of communicating.
Spriritually I persisted in resisting offers of help from Diane.
I was stuck in a frame of mind that was saying to myself:
"You have to do this yourself. Everyone has hard days - get over yourself. Other people need help, but you have to do this on your own."
After Diane asked, and encouraged, and finally demanded that I stop and figure out what was happening I began to be able to quiet those voices and receive her help.
She ended up carrying my pack and hers for about 4 kilometers to our final destination. I could not have walked any further with it myself, and I hobbled those final steps to the albergue.
That night we took a private room in a small albergue instead of a group room.
The next day was a soft day. Gentle walking, gentle hills, gentle rain, still as cold but somehow more bearable. But most of all I was gentle with myself.
Some lessons have to be learned over and over and over - at least for me. Perhaps for you?
We have arrived in a beautiful town today called Atapuerca. You can find it on a map! It is a Unesco World Heritage site.
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Cold fingers and good hospitality
We had a shorter walk today, about 16 km, and tonight are staying in another beautiful albergue, this one operated by volunteers of the Spanish Confraternity of Santiago which has been offering hospitality to pilgrims in Santa Domingo de la Calzada ( in La Rioja - one of Spain´s famous wine regions) for more than 900 years. Imagine that kind of history, and enduring tradition of offering welcome and warmth!
The Albergue hosts 83 people each night, there are 20 in our room, and despite the close quarters, I am developing an ability to feel comfortable sharing my sleeping space with people with similar intentions and trust, from all over the world. There is a commonality we share in this trusting one another, with space, with belongings, and with our well-being. There is conversation over shared meals, and along the way, about how one another is doing, what ailments each might be enduring, and occasionally, when a deeper level of connection is created through attentive listening, a sharing of hopes and dreams for the Camino and sometimes for life. This happens more often than not, when there can be enough understanding of common language to have a conversation at that level.
At other times, it is more than enough to share a piece of chocolate, or sign language about the bracing cold which continued today, or to teach one another the expletives in our respective languages for it´s soooooooooo ***!!!&%$**%&=?? COLDDDDD. As we passed over a high plateau before coming down into Santa Domingo, wearing several layers and almost all of the clothes we brought with us, our fingers were numb. We were glad to see the city below as we crested the last hill.
Later this afternoon, we hope to find a store to buy gloves!
This is a good thing we are doing. As we say our prayer together to begin each morning we give thanks for the day and all that has led us here, and then do a high five tap tap tap on each others´walking poles, and sometimes a little dance step or two to help keep warm.
Cheers!
The Albergue hosts 83 people each night, there are 20 in our room, and despite the close quarters, I am developing an ability to feel comfortable sharing my sleeping space with people with similar intentions and trust, from all over the world. There is a commonality we share in this trusting one another, with space, with belongings, and with our well-being. There is conversation over shared meals, and along the way, about how one another is doing, what ailments each might be enduring, and occasionally, when a deeper level of connection is created through attentive listening, a sharing of hopes and dreams for the Camino and sometimes for life. This happens more often than not, when there can be enough understanding of common language to have a conversation at that level.
At other times, it is more than enough to share a piece of chocolate, or sign language about the bracing cold which continued today, or to teach one another the expletives in our respective languages for it´s soooooooooo ***!!!&%$**%&=?? COLDDDDD. As we passed over a high plateau before coming down into Santa Domingo, wearing several layers and almost all of the clothes we brought with us, our fingers were numb. We were glad to see the city below as we crested the last hill.
Later this afternoon, we hope to find a store to buy gloves!
This is a good thing we are doing. As we say our prayer together to begin each morning we give thanks for the day and all that has led us here, and then do a high five tap tap tap on each others´walking poles, and sometimes a little dance step or two to help keep warm.
Cheers!
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Spring or Winter in Spain?
When we stopped in Najera for lunch today at a bar (Spanish for a place that serves light simple food - bocadillas = sandwiches and other mouth watering snacks, alcohol and cafe con leche), the television news showed images of snow and driving winds of up to 95 km/hr in parts of Spain today. Thankfully the snow is many days´ journey yet to the west, BUT we did experience VERY COLD weather today, about 4-6 degrees Celsius and rain and sleet most of the day, along with very strong winds that led to a strong lean to the right and sore necks to protect our faces and fingers from the numbing cold.
Oh well ... just another wonderful day on the Camino.
Tonight we are in Azofra at a new, purpose built Albergue with only two to a room (6 euros each); we were fortunate to get here in time to get the 2nd last room after about 6 hours of walking (23 km).
We continue to be well. The blisters are healing and no injuries.
Each day we encounter many of the same people who are keeping a similar pace to us, and build upon these friendships (and work on our multilingualism!) and, as we move ahead, meet new folks every day.
The accommodations are busy, and the comidas de peregrinos (pilgrim meals at local restaurants and bars) serve generous and tasty portions.
We are very grateful for the support of family and friends, and internet friends who we have yet to meet.
The cafe con leches and croissants chocolate are wonderful and help us to keep putting one foot in front of the other, as do the daily graces we encounter along the way.
Blessings,
Oh well ... just another wonderful day on the Camino.
Tonight we are in Azofra at a new, purpose built Albergue with only two to a room (6 euros each); we were fortunate to get here in time to get the 2nd last room after about 6 hours of walking (23 km).
We continue to be well. The blisters are healing and no injuries.
Each day we encounter many of the same people who are keeping a similar pace to us, and build upon these friendships (and work on our multilingualism!) and, as we move ahead, meet new folks every day.
The accommodations are busy, and the comidas de peregrinos (pilgrim meals at local restaurants and bars) serve generous and tasty portions.
We are very grateful for the support of family and friends, and internet friends who we have yet to meet.
The cafe con leches and croissants chocolate are wonderful and help us to keep putting one foot in front of the other, as do the daily graces we encounter along the way.
Blessings,
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Viana and all is well ...
This is and will be one of the most amazing things I will do in my life.
We are well. Sore feet and many blisters each. Four days of walking so far (about 80 km) and we are finding our pace.
Spain is so beautiful, lush green mixed farmlands of wheat, barley and oats, grapes and olives, and lavender, rosemary and thyme growing wild, beautiful mountains, and lots of hills to climb and descend along the way.
We have met people from a dozen different countries, enjoyed fantastic dinners, and simple lunches of bread, cheese and olives, and last night visited an amazing 10th century church in Los Arcos. Two days ago it was 30 º Celsius, and today it was 10º. Rain and cold temperatures are forecast for the next two days. We are prepared and will walk, rain or shine.
The scale here is human. Medieval villages with little traffic, all one needs is within walking distance. The sense of centuries of history is something I am just beginning to comprehend. A scale of time so unfamiliar for someone from Canada.
It is wonderful to walk 6-8 hours each day, to have every step be new - villages, countryside, people and sites to encounter.
Late this afternoon, after a medicinal cerveza - it´s said to be cleansing after walking - really! - we discovered an inspiring and beautiful photography exhibit, with images and prayers from the Camino. Blessings around every corner.
We are moving into a rhythm and settling into this precious time of pilgrimage and journey to Spirit and self. Fellow walkers and pilgrims are welcoming and kind.
We share a common humanity -seeking meaning and discovering community along the way.
Blessings a todos!
We are well. Sore feet and many blisters each. Four days of walking so far (about 80 km) and we are finding our pace.
Spain is so beautiful, lush green mixed farmlands of wheat, barley and oats, grapes and olives, and lavender, rosemary and thyme growing wild, beautiful mountains, and lots of hills to climb and descend along the way.
We have met people from a dozen different countries, enjoyed fantastic dinners, and simple lunches of bread, cheese and olives, and last night visited an amazing 10th century church in Los Arcos. Two days ago it was 30 º Celsius, and today it was 10º. Rain and cold temperatures are forecast for the next two days. We are prepared and will walk, rain or shine.
The scale here is human. Medieval villages with little traffic, all one needs is within walking distance. The sense of centuries of history is something I am just beginning to comprehend. A scale of time so unfamiliar for someone from Canada.
It is wonderful to walk 6-8 hours each day, to have every step be new - villages, countryside, people and sites to encounter.
Late this afternoon, after a medicinal cerveza - it´s said to be cleansing after walking - really! - we discovered an inspiring and beautiful photography exhibit, with images and prayers from the Camino. Blessings around every corner.
We are moving into a rhythm and settling into this precious time of pilgrimage and journey to Spirit and self. Fellow walkers and pilgrims are welcoming and kind.
We share a common humanity -seeking meaning and discovering community along the way.
Blessings a todos!
Thursday, April 29, 2010
buen camino!
after several hours of beautiful walking a group of grade 5 or 6 age children passed us by today - they were so encouraging! Saying 'Buen Camino!' and smiling and giving us 'Buenes Dias' all over the place. It was just what we needed to get us down and up the last hill before arriving in Puente de la Reine for the evening. 24.6 km today - yay for us! neither of us have blisters, just tired feet, and some sun glow. We climbed a good big hill or two, passed a major wind farm - huge wind turbines swooshing round, and are finding our walking feet and legs again after three days of travel to get started.
This Refugio is fabulous - only 4 euros each per night, showers, and clean clean clean. Tonight we will be in a small room of only 8 people. Have just come home from a great supper - pilgrim supper - with a handful of germans, irish, american, french, and dutch, and we canadians pracitsing all our language skills to build some friendships. Breakfast tomorrow is planned with Horst and Manfreid, then we are off to Estella or beyond depending on how we feel.
It is sooo much warmer than we had expected. It was probably at least in the low twenties for a good part of the day today. Tonight over supper we had thunder, hail, and a ton of rain.
We have had a great first day.
This Refugio is fabulous - only 4 euros each per night, showers, and clean clean clean. Tonight we will be in a small room of only 8 people. Have just come home from a great supper - pilgrim supper - with a handful of germans, irish, american, french, and dutch, and we canadians pracitsing all our language skills to build some friendships. Breakfast tomorrow is planned with Horst and Manfreid, then we are off to Estella or beyond depending on how we feel.
It is sooo much warmer than we had expected. It was probably at least in the low twenties for a good part of the day today. Tonight over supper we had thunder, hail, and a ton of rain.
We have had a great first day.
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Barcelona
After 38 hours of travel we have made it to Spain, and to Barcelona, and to our first cafe con leche at a sidewalk bar. We have a few hours here before moving by train - our last mode of transport before our feet take over - to Pamplona.
The flight over was fine, but there was no sleeping to be had. So Diane and I are both a bit dizzy and easily distracted by the swirl of the city. After figuring out the menu del dia and getting directions to a supermercado for food to take on the train with us, we stumbled, almost literally, into this internet cafe to do a quick update.
It is very much time to start walking, and although tired from the travel it will be refreshing and settling to finally get on the way.
Buenos tardes!
The flight over was fine, but there was no sleeping to be had. So Diane and I are both a bit dizzy and easily distracted by the swirl of the city. After figuring out the menu del dia and getting directions to a supermercado for food to take on the train with us, we stumbled, almost literally, into this internet cafe to do a quick update.
It is very much time to start walking, and although tired from the travel it will be refreshing and settling to finally get on the way.
Buenos tardes!
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Philly ... and all's well
Three flights yesterday ... smooth sailing. Good night's sleep and half way into the day, and a BIG fruity combo breakfast (2 eggs, 2 strips of turkey bacon, 2 turkey sage sausages, hashbrowns, 2 pancakes and fruit, and whip cream in a can, and 2 cups of coffee) at the Philly Diner and we're ready to roll, literally. We justify it in the name of 25-30 km daily walks that will begin in less than 48 hours!
SO EXCITED!!!!! Goin' to the airport now to fly to Barcelona!
SO EXCITED!!!!! Goin' to the airport now to fly to Barcelona!
Monday, April 26, 2010
We're on our way to the airport!
Wish us luck that we make it all the way to Barcelona.
Then off to Pamplona on Wed.
Hoping to be on the Camino on Thursday.
Blessings a todos!
Then off to Pamplona on Wed.
Hoping to be on the Camino on Thursday.
Blessings a todos!
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
What's in a pack?
What's in a pack? A pack by any other name than "well planned, weighed (gram for gram) and checked and culled again and again" is too heavy. This is something we're learning through trial and error and conditioning walks carrying our packs, and from RESEARCH, which is telling us that next to finding the right shoes, achieving minimal pack weight is the most important thing we can do to prepare for an enjoyable and backpain-free Camino! We've also been told by many sources not to carry more than 10% of ones body weight. Our final packing list with every item weighed and accounted for is attached (Click on the title of this post: "What's in a pack?" to view the pdf). You can guess if we've acheived this "not more than 10% goal" but we won't tell you if you're right!The other thing we're learning is that the precious water that will keep us hydrated, healthy and blister free along the way is HEAVY ... about a kg per litre, which means, if we're meant to carry two litres each with us on days with long distances between fountains, adding 2 kg (or about 4.4 lbs) to our packs, like carrying four bricks of butter.
(I was born and grew up before Canada converted from imperial measures to metric. While metric makes sense to me mathematically, "pounds" still make a lot more sense when I'm trying to understand how much I can carry on my back!)
People who know me know that I really like butter, and that I am convinced it's much healthier than margarine. Despite my taste for butter, I know I feel better when I'm lighter and well hydrated, so I think I'll carry the 2 kg of water instead of 4 bricks of butter.
The photos are from our walk yesterday on the Kettle Valley Railway trail above Naramata.
Ahhhh - Sunshine, spring blossoms and cool, refreshing spring runoff! Only five more sleeps until our new departure date. Fingers crossed!
Monday, April 19, 2010
airports and good people
At 4 am the information we had indicated the flight to Paris 'may' go - so we headed to the local airport here at 4:30 with our light packs, and passports and Euros and hopes in hand.
At the ticket counter - our airport only has one ticket counter - the agent greeted us kindly. She had been monitoring our flights for us - unbeknownst to us - and was ready for our arrival. Due to the continued uncertainty about flight cancellations there was a note on our file saying "Do not board". The same note appeared on our flights from Vancouver and Montreal. The next flights available were in May - too late for us.
Even though we had been preparing to go, and at the same time preparing not to go, I was overwhelmed with disappointment. The finality of hearing that we could not fly today allowed me to really experience the hopes I had been carrying as well as the sadness.
So - home we came to sleep.
At 7:00 the phone rang. It was the agent from Air Canada who had received us in Penticton. She had done some searching for us on potential re booking arrangements and wanted to strongly encourage us to see if we could get another flight for later this week.
Hope springs eternal. On the strength of this encouragement Diane got on the phone and connected with another very kind person at Aeroplan who tried all kinds of flight paths and combinations for us. The result of this dedication, kindness and tenacity is that we have a new departure date!
April 26,2010.
So - now a new round of plans and reworking of our walking distances and a different kind of excitement - and the pilgrimage continues!
At the ticket counter - our airport only has one ticket counter - the agent greeted us kindly. She had been monitoring our flights for us - unbeknownst to us - and was ready for our arrival. Due to the continued uncertainty about flight cancellations there was a note on our file saying "Do not board". The same note appeared on our flights from Vancouver and Montreal. The next flights available were in May - too late for us.
Even though we had been preparing to go, and at the same time preparing not to go, I was overwhelmed with disappointment. The finality of hearing that we could not fly today allowed me to really experience the hopes I had been carrying as well as the sadness.
So - home we came to sleep.
At 7:00 the phone rang. It was the agent from Air Canada who had received us in Penticton. She had done some searching for us on potential re booking arrangements and wanted to strongly encourage us to see if we could get another flight for later this week.
Hope springs eternal. On the strength of this encouragement Diane got on the phone and connected with another very kind person at Aeroplan who tried all kinds of flight paths and combinations for us. The result of this dedication, kindness and tenacity is that we have a new departure date!
April 26,2010.
So - now a new round of plans and reworking of our walking distances and a different kind of excitement - and the pilgrimage continues!
Sunday, April 18, 2010
A Pilgrim Prayer
One of the unexpected blessings of our preparations for this pilgrimage and the creation of this blog is that we have joined an international network of fellow pilgrims who generously offer wisdom and mutual support from around the world.
Earlier this week, Sil from South Africa posted a comment on my April 14 post ("dianie brownielocks and the four pairs"), offering to share "things to know" in preparation for the Camino Frances. We corresponded by email through the week, and along with many encouraging and kind words, Sil sent files with "things to know", "how much should I budget and how to best take money", a "backpack list" and a list of key spanish phrases for pilgrims on the Camino.
Her final note said:
"Don't have too many expectations, just take each day as it comes, love everything - the dust, the stony paths, the medieval villages, the grumpy shopkeepers, the touro-grinos who arrive in busses, the kind hospitaleros and the surly hospitaleros, the mud in Galicia mixed with cowshit, the good food, the dreadful food - take it all as it comes! And then you get home it is quite normal to want to send half the contents of your closets to the homeless!
Oh - and yes, you will suffer the PPB's (the Post Pilgrimage Blues) and the only cure is to do another long walk!
Big pilgrim hugs!
Sil
(check out her blog at http://amawalker.blogspot.com/)
So, inspired by this kindness from Sil, and because we want to walk with positive intention, we've created this prayer that we'll say as we begin each day. You're welcome to join us.
May I love this day and all that it brings
The dust, stones or mud beneath my feet
The air I breathe, food I eat, water I drink
May I open my heart to mysteries along the way
Greet fellow pilgrims with welcome and grace
Move lightly and simply through the day
May I give thanks for the Earth, our fragile home
For all my relations who have gone before me
And for all who will follow ... I am not alone
May the spirit and blessing of the One who is love
- Holy One among us, all around us, and within us -
Be with me today, and surround me with love
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Pilgrimage: when and where?
For three days now airports in Europe have been closed due to the activity of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano in Iceland. And so for the last two days we've been watching, wondering, and simply witnessing the havoc in the very places we have been planning to travel to for many weeks.
We are booked to travel on Monday morning early. Since we made the decision to walk we have been preparing. We've been preparing our gear; preparing our bodies; preparing our lives to be able to be away for 40 days; preparing our minds and hearts for the experience.
In so many ways we have already covered a lot of ground - it just happens that none of it is in France or Spain.
I thought that the hardest part of the pilgrimage may be the close proximity of other pilgrims in the albergues and hostels. I have wondered if my knees, or feet, or back would suffer the most. I have wondered if I would be able to maintain the walking distance required to arrive in Santiago in the time frame we've got. I have wondered how I will keep grounded in the present, and do the soul work I want to be doing.
I see now that the spiritual work of letting go will likely be the most challenging. I was planning on writing each day on the Camino about the experience of my burnout and gradual healing. And especially about the real day-to-day emotional, spiritual, even physical work of letting go. Today I am facing the possibility of letting go of the Camino itself.
So today and tomorrow we wait;
continue to witness the earth boiling up into the sky;
continue to witness the realities of stranded travelers;
continue our own pilgrimage preparations.
We may depart for Spain soon. or later.
In either case, the pilgrimage continues.
We are booked to travel on Monday morning early. Since we made the decision to walk we have been preparing. We've been preparing our gear; preparing our bodies; preparing our lives to be able to be away for 40 days; preparing our minds and hearts for the experience.
In so many ways we have already covered a lot of ground - it just happens that none of it is in France or Spain.
I thought that the hardest part of the pilgrimage may be the close proximity of other pilgrims in the albergues and hostels. I have wondered if my knees, or feet, or back would suffer the most. I have wondered if I would be able to maintain the walking distance required to arrive in Santiago in the time frame we've got. I have wondered how I will keep grounded in the present, and do the soul work I want to be doing.
I see now that the spiritual work of letting go will likely be the most challenging. I was planning on writing each day on the Camino about the experience of my burnout and gradual healing. And especially about the real day-to-day emotional, spiritual, even physical work of letting go. Today I am facing the possibility of letting go of the Camino itself.
So today and tomorrow we wait;
continue to witness the earth boiling up into the sky;
continue to witness the realities of stranded travelers;
continue our own pilgrimage preparations.
We may depart for Spain soon. or later.
In either case, the pilgrimage continues.
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
dianie brownielocks and the four pairs
One upon a time, little dianie brownielocks and her little friend, alli salt&peppalocks, decided to fly in a plane from Penticton all the way to Paris, then take a train to Bayonne, and a bus to St. Jean Pied de Port at the foot of the Pyrennes so that they could take a very special walk.
They had read storybooks about this famous walk and learned that people just like them, and many people not at all like them, thousands and millions of people from all over the world, famous people and infamous people, over the last 1200 years, had walked this very same walk.
Over time it had come to be known as the Camino de Santiago de Compostela or the Way of Saint James of the Field of Stars (just in case you don’t know Spanish).
Brownielocks and salt&peppalocks thought it would be a really neat thing to do, and they were eager to get ready for this trip to a faraway land. All the stories they read, and all of the people they met who had done this walk said that the most important thing they needed to do was to have good shoes!
Brownielocks and salt&peppalocks thought it would be a really neat thing to do, and they were eager to get ready for this trip to a faraway land. All the stories they read, and all of the people they met who had done this walk said that the most important thing they needed to do was to have good shoes!
This is the story of dianie brownielocks and the four pairs.
Way back in December when brownielocks and salt&peppalocks were in Vancouver, dianie went shopping at a running shoe store and bought a pair of size 8 ½ New Balance trail runners. They were black, rugged and handsome. She thought that these shoes would be just right. But after four or five walks she found out that they were just a little bit too big, and no matter what she did, her feet began to hurt.
So a few weeks later, the friends went to Fritz’s Shoes in Penticton, one of the best shoe stores they have ever been in (and they have visited many many shoe stores over the years, because salt&peppalocks really likes shoes!). dianie had looked and looked on her computer doing RESEARCH to try and find the pair of shoes that would be just right for their special walk, and the ones she found were right there, just down the road at Fritz’s! She bought a pair of size 8 Vasque Breeze Low VST GTX shoes. She thought they would be just right. But after four or five walks she found out that they were just a little bit too small, and going downhill her toes smashed into the end of her shoes, and no matter what she did, her feet began to hurt.
So another few weeks later, brownielocks and salt&peppalocks went into Softies Shoes in Penticton, another one of the best shoe stores they have ever found, and brownielocks tried on a pair of Keens. She has loved Keens since the first day she saw her first pair in Nelson many many years ago (and she has been a loyal Keen wearer ever since). She tried on a pair of size 8 ½ Targhee II Brown/Olive beauties, and she thought that they would be just right. (Thankfully, allie salt&peppalocks is very patient and supportive when she goes shopping with dianie brownielocks.) But after four or five walks brownielocks found that the Keens were really hot and just a little bit too big, and they slipped off her heals, and no matter what she did, her feet began to hurt.
Now at this time, allie salt&peppalocks was very busy at the place where she works, and dianie was just starting a sabbatical (four months off!!!) from the place where she works to earn money to pay for too many pairs of shoes. So dianie went on a BIG DRIVE and during that drive she went to the Mountain Equipment Coop store in Edmonton. It was cold outside and too hot inside, and she was beginning to wonder if she would ever find the right pair of shoes. She looked at the shoes on the wall from a distance, trying not to get her hopes up, and then felt a strange power overcome her and was drawn to move closer. A warm welcoming voice said, “Can I help you?” And little dianie brownielocks almost burst into tears, sat down on the shoe trying on bench and told the story of trying to find shoes for her special walk that were just right to the very nice woman who had asked if she could help. The woman measured brownielocks’ feet, and brought out a pair of size 8 La Sportiva trekking shoes. “We just got these in. They are very well made and good for doing special walks”, she said. “I think you will like these very much.”
Brownielocks put on one shoe, then the other, laced them up just right, and then walked around the store, and walked some more, up the little climbing ramp, and back down again, and up and down, and around the store again and again for what seemed like a very long time. She didn’t want to buy the wrong shoes again. Finally, she took a deep breath and told the nice woman that she would buy them. She thanked her very very much for helping her.
So a few weeks later, the friends went to Fritz’s Shoes in Penticton, one of the best shoe stores they have ever been in (and they have visited many many shoe stores over the years, because salt&peppalocks really likes shoes!). dianie had looked and looked on her computer doing RESEARCH to try and find the pair of shoes that would be just right for their special walk, and the ones she found were right there, just down the road at Fritz’s! She bought a pair of size 8 Vasque Breeze Low VST GTX shoes. She thought they would be just right. But after four or five walks she found out that they were just a little bit too small, and going downhill her toes smashed into the end of her shoes, and no matter what she did, her feet began to hurt.
So another few weeks later, brownielocks and salt&peppalocks went into Softies Shoes in Penticton, another one of the best shoe stores they have ever found, and brownielocks tried on a pair of Keens. She has loved Keens since the first day she saw her first pair in Nelson many many years ago (and she has been a loyal Keen wearer ever since). She tried on a pair of size 8 ½ Targhee II Brown/Olive beauties, and she thought that they would be just right. (Thankfully, allie salt&peppalocks is very patient and supportive when she goes shopping with dianie brownielocks.) But after four or five walks brownielocks found that the Keens were really hot and just a little bit too big, and they slipped off her heals, and no matter what she did, her feet began to hurt.
Now at this time, allie salt&peppalocks was very busy at the place where she works, and dianie was just starting a sabbatical (four months off!!!) from the place where she works to earn money to pay for too many pairs of shoes. So dianie went on a BIG DRIVE and during that drive she went to the Mountain Equipment Coop store in Edmonton. It was cold outside and too hot inside, and she was beginning to wonder if she would ever find the right pair of shoes. She looked at the shoes on the wall from a distance, trying not to get her hopes up, and then felt a strange power overcome her and was drawn to move closer. A warm welcoming voice said, “Can I help you?” And little dianie brownielocks almost burst into tears, sat down on the shoe trying on bench and told the story of trying to find shoes for her special walk that were just right to the very nice woman who had asked if she could help. The woman measured brownielocks’ feet, and brought out a pair of size 8 La Sportiva trekking shoes. “We just got these in. They are very well made and good for doing special walks”, she said. “I think you will like these very much.”
Brownielocks put on one shoe, then the other, laced them up just right, and then walked around the store, and walked some more, up the little climbing ramp, and back down again, and up and down, and around the store again and again for what seemed like a very long time. She didn’t want to buy the wrong shoes again. Finally, she took a deep breath and told the nice woman that she would buy them. She thanked her very very much for helping her.
That was two months ago, and the La Sportiva’s are still just right! Little brownielocks' feet are happy and there are only six more sleeps until she and salt&peppalocks get on the BIG plane to fly to Paris.
And that is the story of brownielocks and the four pairs.
(Postscript: brownielocks was very happy to be able to do a partial trade of the New Balance shoes for a print that she bought recently from a friend. The Vasques and Keens are still looking for a good home. Interested???)
Monday, February 22, 2010
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Another kind of pilgrimage …
.jpg)
There’s something to be said for getting out of town to gain a little perspective. And there’s a lot to be said for travelling alone, for taking time out to reflect on what I’ve been doing for the past many years (a good thing to do on sabbatical), and to look to the future, to consider goals and changes that will be life giving for me.
So on February 2, day two of my sabbatical, I set out on a mid-winter western Canadian tour to visit family and friends, and to make a final pilgrimage to my mom’s house in Regina. Canadian musicians, The Arrogant Worms, said it: Canada’s really BIG, and I only drove through parts of our three westernmost provinces, a measly 4,000 km. The diversity of landscapes was absolutely stunning, from the rolling mountains and lakes of the Thompson-Okanagan, to the stunning snow covered Rockies, into the expansive brilliant blue skies, sunshine and crisp winter flatscape of the prairies, and back again into the high mountain wonders of Jasper and BC’s Cariboo.
Despite the Arrogant Worms’ claim that Canada is so big “we seldom bother to go see one another”, my trip was, among other things, about exactly that -- making time to see and check in with people who are important to me, to see how they’re doing, and in turn, to see how I am doing. It was an informal but intentional pilgrimage of relationships, a time to be with people I care about, and to check in with myself through sharing conversation and meals, and by just being with family and friends.
So on February 2, day two of my sabbatical, I set out on a mid-winter western Canadian tour to visit family and friends, and to make a final pilgrimage to my mom’s house in Regina. Canadian musicians, The Arrogant Worms, said it: Canada’s really BIG, and I only drove through parts of our three westernmost provinces, a measly 4,000 km. The diversity of landscapes was absolutely stunning, from the rolling mountains and lakes of the Thompson-Okanagan, to the stunning snow covered Rockies, into the expansive brilliant blue skies, sunshine and crisp winter flatscape of the prairies, and back again into the high mountain wonders of Jasper and BC’s Cariboo.
Despite the Arrogant Worms’ claim that Canada is so big “we seldom bother to go see one another”, my trip was, among other things, about exactly that -- making time to see and check in with people who are important to me, to see how they’re doing, and in turn, to see how I am doing. It was an informal but intentional pilgrimage of relationships, a time to be with people I care about, and to check in with myself through sharing conversation and meals, and by just being with family and friends.
Here are a few things:
- My family is important to me …. Making time to see one another, and being intentional about how we spend our time together are important. Our babies and elders are precious.
- I caught glimpses of my mom and dad along the way. They are as close as my heart …
- Conversations with good friends have depth and meaning. Despite long periods of time and distances apart we can listen and talk with each other about what matters, trusting that the foundation of our friendship is strong.
- Making choices about how I spend my time is important – it’s the only thing that I cannot get more of. I noticed how much I enjoy and want to go more slowly.
- I love being outside. I feel better, more like me, when I walk. (And I really like my truck!)
- Going through my cupboard of childhood treasures in my mom’s basement was a nostalgic trip down memory lane – a road I don’t travel naturally or frequently. I sifted and sorted and let go of what I could, and brought home with me six boxes filled with scrapbooks, coin and stamp collections, animal and bird cards from Red Rose tea and Alphabets cereal boxes, letters and school books, swimming and sports awards, and memorabilia from the 1976 Olympics. I have an idea for a project …
- Seeing large animals living and thriving on the land (despite all we as humans are doing to damage and threaten our shared environment) brings me great joy and cause for hope. When I was young I used to go for walks on the farm with my Auntie Neanie and I would ask her to write down all of the animals we would see: “a family of skunks lives in the culvert at the end of the lane”. She nurtured my love for the natural world with gifts of field guides, and How and Why Wonder Books (which I found in my cupboard and brought home with me). So … for the record, on this trip I saw elk, white-tailed deer and mule deer, groups of 10, 40, up to 80 pronghorn antelope (which always give me a particular prairie thrill), big-horn sheep and mountain goats, and two moose!
- Spending time in Wells with friends Claire Kujundzic and Bill Horne (http://www.claireart.ca/), who are committed to living with simplicity, to creating beauty with a message, to working with integrity to make the world better, and to protecting what is sacred in life, stirs me to continue to ask hard questions, and to make good choices ….
- I want to live in hope that we are all doing our best, and that we can support one another in knowing what that is for each of us.
- While I was away, I missed Allison. It was good to get out of town, and it is good to be home.
I’m not in the habit of looking for my daily horoscope, but this one, read to me by my brother-in-law in Regina, seemed timely. I’m not sure yet what it means (if anything) but I like imagining the possibilities!
"Some people have a hard time letting the wind carry them where it will. That’s not your challenge. It’s way harder for you to stay in one place for any duration. You’re in luck. You’ll be asked (and maybe paid) to wander."
(Sagittarius, Regina Leader Post, Feb 6, 2010)
"Some people have a hard time letting the wind carry them where it will. That’s not your challenge. It’s way harder for you to stay in one place for any duration. You’re in luck. You’ll be asked (and maybe paid) to wander."
(Sagittarius, Regina Leader Post, Feb 6, 2010)
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Pilgrim Passports!
Our pilgrim passports arrived this week! We ordered them about 3 weeks ago from the Canadian Company of Pilgrims. These will be stamped each evening at the hostels we'll stay in as a record of our journey, and to verify to the folks at the Cathedral in Santiago that we've walked every step of the way.We'll sew the badges on our packs. Despite our government's inaction at the recent climate conference in Copenhagen, hopefully being identifiable as Canadians will still lead to positive encounters with fellow pilgrims.
Take a Guess
I am becoming obsessed with the weight of everything which will end up in my pack. I am determined not to take too much. Later I will post my packing list - but I thought you might like to take a guess on the final weight and perhaps win a small prize if you guess closest to the exact amount - come on take a guess! Here's a picture of my pack - it weighs 600 grams. Make sure your guess includes the pack weight.
Also my shoes after a few training walks. I'll post a picture of what they look like after we finish walking too.
Kettle Valley Railway to the Little Tunnel
A beautiful crisp Saturday afternoon and good conversation with friends Bryna and Skai made for a great 2 hour walk on the KVR today. Allison spotted a small group of deer far below us as we sat overlooking Okanagan lake at the little tunnel. After only three weeks of walking our legs are feeling stronger, our packs fit well, and we're feeling good!
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Nice Day for a Walk
Today we tried out our new small (35 litre) backpacks and Allison's new Leki trecking poles (mine are on order) for the first time with a 2 hour walk up to and along the Kettle Valley Railway, and home again. Breaking in our hiking shoes, getting used to climbing hills again (there will be lots of ups and downs in Spain), and getting creaky knee joints moving. It was a gloriously sunshiny day - felt more like the end of March than mid January. We're in training!
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Recommend a Book For Our Walk?
John Brierley's guidebook, A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino de Santiago, will be tucked into one of our packs as we head out onto the Camino. It is current, filled with practical info - a day by day guide to the path, maps, accommodation options in pilgrim hostels (also called refugios or albergues) and historical information - and, unlike some others we've looked at, offers questions for spiritual reflection.
We're also thinking about which one or two wee books each of us will take to nurture our souls along the way. They need to be small and light. (We're aiming to carry only 10-12 pounds each.)
We welcome your recommendations. And we'll have a great reading list to share with friends and family who we've invited to join us in our first ever blog!
What We're Reading
Here are some books we're reading to prepare for the journey:
Personal Memoirs
Walk in a Relaxed Manner by Joyce Rupp
The Way is Made by Walking, A Pilgrimage Along the Camino de Santiago by Arthur Paul Boers
The Camino, A Journey of the Spirit by Shirley Maclaine
Guidebooks
A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago (A Practical & Mystical Manual for the Modern Day Pilgrim) by John Brierley
Walking the Camino de Santiago, 3rd Edition, by Bethan Davies and Paul Cole
Spanish Phrasebook Berlitz
Any others to recommend?
Personal Memoirs
Walk in a Relaxed Manner by Joyce Rupp
The Way is Made by Walking, A Pilgrimage Along the Camino de Santiago by Arthur Paul Boers
The Camino, A Journey of the Spirit by Shirley Maclaine
Guidebooks
A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago (A Practical & Mystical Manual for the Modern Day Pilgrim) by John Brierley
Walking the Camino de Santiago, 3rd Edition, by Bethan Davies and Paul Cole
Spanish Phrasebook Berlitz
Any others to recommend?
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
A Good Time For a Long Walk
It’s good to have something to look forward to … 2009 was a challenging year. After more than five year’s of living with a diagnosis of pancreatic cancer, 26 stent procedures, quadruple bypass heart surgery, a broken hip, and becoming diabetic – all of which she survived with grace and tenacity, good humour and love as the “energizer Buddy” – my mom died on July 12. My brothers, sister, brother-in- law, nieces, cousin, and Allison and I had precious time with her in the final weeks of her life. I still want to phone her most days of the week, to tell her about my day and see how she is doing. I miss her gentle loving spirit very much, and I am so grateful to have had the gift of the last five years with her. I have never experienced such loss in my life. I think of my mom every day. I am ok, but I miss her very much.
My beloved Allison is better now, but since last June (when she needed to stop working because of severe burnout) she travelled dark days of depression, adrenal fatigue, and exhaustion. Days when she found it difficult to find the energy to gather words and speak, week upon week when she didn’t want to leave the house, and a profoundly uncharacteristic loss of inspiration to do most things. With tenderness, patience, and faith, she grew well. She found again things that she loves to do and that are good for her soul – baking bread, reading, sewing, gardening, more time with our god kids, friends and family, and the capacity to sit in the sun and simply be. Yesterday she returned to work and will co-lead Winter Session, a program she loves, beginning Jan 10 and ending April 9.
We have experienced a great deal of support from family and friends, gifts of love and care, times of intentional retreat and renewal, times away.
And the gift of perspective … on life, and work, and making time for what is important.
After 11 years of working at Naramata Centre, I will be taking a sabbatical from Feb 1 – May 31! I have wanted to do a BIG walk for several years. It’s a dream that has ebbed and sparked and cycled over the years. A couple of years ago I read Joyce Rupp’s book, “Walk in a Relaxed Manner” about the Camino and I thought I would like to do it one day.
That day is now circled on the calendar. We booked our flight on New Year’s Day as a symbol of the beginning of the New Year. We fly to Paris April 19 and will start our walk on the 21st.
It’s a good time for a long walk. And I am so looking forward to doing this with Allison.
My beloved Allison is better now, but since last June (when she needed to stop working because of severe burnout) she travelled dark days of depression, adrenal fatigue, and exhaustion. Days when she found it difficult to find the energy to gather words and speak, week upon week when she didn’t want to leave the house, and a profoundly uncharacteristic loss of inspiration to do most things. With tenderness, patience, and faith, she grew well. She found again things that she loves to do and that are good for her soul – baking bread, reading, sewing, gardening, more time with our god kids, friends and family, and the capacity to sit in the sun and simply be. Yesterday she returned to work and will co-lead Winter Session, a program she loves, beginning Jan 10 and ending April 9.
We have experienced a great deal of support from family and friends, gifts of love and care, times of intentional retreat and renewal, times away.
And the gift of perspective … on life, and work, and making time for what is important.
After 11 years of working at Naramata Centre, I will be taking a sabbatical from Feb 1 – May 31! I have wanted to do a BIG walk for several years. It’s a dream that has ebbed and sparked and cycled over the years. A couple of years ago I read Joyce Rupp’s book, “Walk in a Relaxed Manner” about the Camino and I thought I would like to do it one day.
That day is now circled on the calendar. We booked our flight on New Year’s Day as a symbol of the beginning of the New Year. We fly to Paris April 19 and will start our walk on the 21st.
It’s a good time for a long walk. And I am so looking forward to doing this with Allison.
Monday, January 4, 2010
What is the Camino de Santiago?
The Camino is an ancient pilgrimage route in Northern Spain. There are many routes, or caminos, which lead to Santiago de Compostela; several begin in Spain, others in various parts of Europe or the UK. The way we will walk is called the Camino Frances. It begins just near the Spanish French border in a town called St Jean Pied de Port, and leads to Santiago de Compostela. The walk is nearly 800 km. A mighty long way.
There are lots of sites devoted to describing the Camino de Santiago and I recommend checking these out. Diane will post her favourites for you. This brief description of the Camino comes from a really good Uk site http://www.caminodesantiago.me.uk/
The Camino de Santiago de Compostela, also known in English as The Way of St James, is a collection of old pilgrimage routes which cover all Europe. They all have Santiago de Compostela in north west Spain as their final destination. For more than 1000 years pilgrims have been walking along the Camino de Santiago.
The main Camino route is the Camino Frances. This part of the Camino de Santiago traditionally starts in St Jean Pied de Port and finishes in Santiago de Compostela about 780km later, after traveling the breadth of Northern Spain, (In Santiago you can collect your Compostela). However you can start anywhere and even continue past Santiago to the sea at Finisterre. Finisterre was thought to be the end of the world in medieval times
We will begin the travelling portion of the pilgrimage on April 19th - the preparation in other ways is already happening. And the walking part of the experience will finish with a flight home on May 28th.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
.jpg){kind=link}
