We arrived home late last night after a day of travel that went on and on and on and on ... we're tired but well.
Settling in at home, happy to have the opportunity to choose what to wear based on what we feel like wearing rather than which clothes smell the least ... and doing laundry.
Our kitty Robin seems happy that we're home and is snoozing on the couch, the yard is a verdant jungle of green, the hawthorne is in full deep pink bloom and bustling with small yellow warblers - it's been cool and wet most of the month we've been away - and our home is in welcoming good shape thanks to our house sitters Jacquie and Brent.
At the moment, we're listening to a CD of Galician celtic bagpipe music to stay in the glow of Spanish time-space, and looking forward to grocery shopping later this afternoon to make a salad for dinner!
Hope to have some photos to share in the next few days.
Feeling grateful for the wonderful adventure we've had, and trusting the Camino will continue ...
p.s. As we left the Vancouver airport last night to board our final flight home, I spied a fellow traveller wearing a sweatshirt with the Camino flecha amarilla (yellow arrow). I remembered seeing him and a woman who I thought might be his mom walking for the last few days as I headed towards Santiago. I said hello, and told him I too was just returning from the Camino. He smiled BIG, and we wished each other "Buen Camino!"
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Santiago Highlights
Attending the Pilgrims´ mass at the enormous Cathedral de Santiago along with 1200-1500 others and experiencing the welcoming energy of the presiding Bishop, seeing the botafumeiro, and hearing the role call of pilgrims who had arrived the day before ... which included 2 Canadians!
Visiting the Museo de Peregrinacion (Museum of Pilgrimage) and seeing beautiful black and white photos of "Pure Christianity" of pilgrims in Eritrea and Ethiopia (where Allison visited in 1997)
Talking and laughing with the young woman in the Panideria & Dulces who wanted to practice her English while we practiced our Spanish trying to buy donuts
The still warm, sugary, oily Donuts!
Talking and laughing with the woman in the Galegos Productos store about buying and how to cook "Ortegas" (stinging nettles) which we bought and will eat when we get home (see Allison´s post below about landing in a ditch full of nettles).
Meeting and talking with Esteban (who took great joy in practicing his English) in the Celtic Rugy Shop that sold kilts, where Allison bought a New Zealand Rugby shirt made in Espana!
Finding non-smoking restaurants, including enjoying our first tapas lunch, and our first bocadillo (sandwich) that included mayonasa (with pollo, tomate and lechuga) yummy
Watching two 8-9 year old boys play hide and seek in the Recantos Bar at beer o´clock
Seeing generations, families out walking, eating, laughing together
Seeing a photo exhibit and video "Regresso a Orixe" portraying pilgrimage in Jerusalem, Rome & Santiago by Manuel Valcarcel commisioned by Galicia for this 2010 Holy Year on the Camino - inspiring, beautiful, moved to tears
Pouring rain, flowing off rooftops and out of the mouths of gargoyles
Seeing, recognizing and embracing fellow walkers, pilgrims, amongst the throngs of thousands of tourists in this holy medieval city
Thinking that I had accidentally erased the more than 1000 photos that we had taken, crying my eyes out, and then discovering I hadn´t ... (It´s a long story)
Witnessing the excitment of the German priest, a fellow pilgrim, who spoke at the mass we attended, when the 60 kg incense-burning botafumeiro was lit and swung like a pendulum by 8 attendants more than 60 feet in the air ...
Sunshine and cafes con leche at outdoor cafes on this our final day in Spain!
We´ll be home late tomorrow night.
With love,
Diane and Allison
Visiting the Museo de Peregrinacion (Museum of Pilgrimage) and seeing beautiful black and white photos of "Pure Christianity" of pilgrims in Eritrea and Ethiopia (where Allison visited in 1997)
Talking and laughing with the young woman in the Panideria & Dulces who wanted to practice her English while we practiced our Spanish trying to buy donuts
The still warm, sugary, oily Donuts!
Talking and laughing with the woman in the Galegos Productos store about buying and how to cook "Ortegas" (stinging nettles) which we bought and will eat when we get home (see Allison´s post below about landing in a ditch full of nettles).
Meeting and talking with Esteban (who took great joy in practicing his English) in the Celtic Rugy Shop that sold kilts, where Allison bought a New Zealand Rugby shirt made in Espana!
Finding non-smoking restaurants, including enjoying our first tapas lunch, and our first bocadillo (sandwich) that included mayonasa (with pollo, tomate and lechuga) yummy
Watching two 8-9 year old boys play hide and seek in the Recantos Bar at beer o´clock
Seeing generations, families out walking, eating, laughing together
Seeing a photo exhibit and video "Regresso a Orixe" portraying pilgrimage in Jerusalem, Rome & Santiago by Manuel Valcarcel commisioned by Galicia for this 2010 Holy Year on the Camino - inspiring, beautiful, moved to tears
Pouring rain, flowing off rooftops and out of the mouths of gargoyles
Seeing, recognizing and embracing fellow walkers, pilgrims, amongst the throngs of thousands of tourists in this holy medieval city
Thinking that I had accidentally erased the more than 1000 photos that we had taken, crying my eyes out, and then discovering I hadn´t ... (It´s a long story)
Witnessing the excitment of the German priest, a fellow pilgrim, who spoke at the mass we attended, when the 60 kg incense-burning botafumeiro was lit and swung like a pendulum by 8 attendants more than 60 feet in the air ...
Sunshine and cafes con leche at outdoor cafes on this our final day in Spain!
We´ll be home late tomorrow night.
With love,
Diane and Allison
Monday, May 24, 2010
Santiago
We made it.
Diane arrived mid day with sore feet and high spirits to meet me at the Porto de Camino. Together we walked in to the Cathedral which felt like a good way to draw to an end the walking part of this experience. It is impossible to find the words to describe the place. Just big big huge.
There is much to explore and enjoy.
Tonight though is a time to rest; tomorrow Pilgrim´s mass at the Cathedral.
The Camino continues...
Diane arrived mid day with sore feet and high spirits to meet me at the Porto de Camino. Together we walked in to the Cathedral which felt like a good way to draw to an end the walking part of this experience. It is impossible to find the words to describe the place. Just big big huge.
There is much to explore and enjoy.
Tonight though is a time to rest; tomorrow Pilgrim´s mass at the Cathedral.
The Camino continues...
Sunday, May 23, 2010
One More Day ... Walking to Santiago
Alone this evening in Arca Do Pino ... 20 km from Santiago
after having had dinner with two women from Hungary
and, after they left, two men from Finland
... friends on the Camino.
Allison and I will meet tomorrow at noon
at the gate to the medieval city, then walk together
to the Cathedral de Santigo.
I am giving thanks and wondering
about the gift, blessing and significance
of this time of walking ... of communion
with fellow pilgrims from all over the world,
with the land and people of Spain along the Camino.
Giving thanks.
What if the actual remains of James the Apostle
are entombed in the Cathedral de Santiago?
Does the answer to this question matter?
What if ... this patron Saint of Spain, this friend and follower of Jesus - the man, the Spirit, God - is calling out to those who will listen?
What call will I hear?
There has been time on the Camino,
there will be time in Santiago,
and at home
to listen.
With love and gratitude for friends and family at home,
and Camino friends along the way, those we´ve met
and those we´ve yet to meet.
And to my family - Guck for the Guck!
(I love you)
Talk to you soon,
Diane
after having had dinner with two women from Hungary
and, after they left, two men from Finland
... friends on the Camino.
Allison and I will meet tomorrow at noon
at the gate to the medieval city, then walk together
to the Cathedral de Santigo.
I am giving thanks and wondering
about the gift, blessing and significance
of this time of walking ... of communion
with fellow pilgrims from all over the world,
with the land and people of Spain along the Camino.
Giving thanks.
What if the actual remains of James the Apostle
are entombed in the Cathedral de Santiago?
Does the answer to this question matter?
What if ... this patron Saint of Spain, this friend and follower of Jesus - the man, the Spirit, God - is calling out to those who will listen?
What call will I hear?
There has been time on the Camino,
there will be time in Santiago,
and at home
to listen.
With love and gratitude for friends and family at home,
and Camino friends along the way, those we´ve met
and those we´ve yet to meet.
And to my family - Guck for the Guck!
(I love you)
Talk to you soon,
Diane
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Arzua
Watching from the restfull shelter of this cafe
a stream of pigrims
steadily passing
- or unsteadily passing -
with heavy backpacks,
wide brimmed hats,
high tech walking poles,
hand-carved sticks,
ball caps, berets, crutches, without bags, with eye shadow,
wilting under the sun -
bearded, smooth, smoking, perfumed, cell phone ringing,
or silent -
with crosses, shells, badges, pins, buttons, beads,
guitars,
bicycles,
horses,
donkeys
some determined, some drifters
some shuffle, some sprint
some linger in a wisp of shade
some race on to the next day.
They pray in 800 year old places
with quiet
they pray in bars with tv blarring
with beer -
they go in groups
they go alone
they sing, write, talk talk talk talk talk
laugh
cry.
There is no thing in all these lives which is the same -
except for this Camino
and this day.
And this is profoundly unifying.
and this is Good.
And now my Camino is
to be
a witness.
And this, too,
is Good.
a stream of pigrims
steadily passing
- or unsteadily passing -
with heavy backpacks,
wide brimmed hats,
high tech walking poles,
hand-carved sticks,
ball caps, berets, crutches, without bags, with eye shadow,
wilting under the sun -
bearded, smooth, smoking, perfumed, cell phone ringing,
or silent -
with crosses, shells, badges, pins, buttons, beads,
guitars,
bicycles,
horses,
donkeys
some determined, some drifters
some shuffle, some sprint
some linger in a wisp of shade
some race on to the next day.
They pray in 800 year old places
with quiet
they pray in bars with tv blarring
with beer -
they go in groups
they go alone
they sing, write, talk talk talk talk talk
laugh
cry.
There is no thing in all these lives which is the same -
except for this Camino
and this day.
And this is profoundly unifying.
and this is Good.
And now my Camino is
to be
a witness.
And this, too,
is Good.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Our Santiagos
Three days ago we walked through cool early morning, mountain mist on stone-wall lined paths, over streams, past abandoned grist mills, from Triacastela to Samos. We wanted to visit the Monasterio de Samos, despite the extra 6.5 km required by this route. The Monastery is one of the oldest continously inhabited monasteries in the ¨western world¨, with one of the largest grounds and enclosed garden cloisters in Spain.
After a 3 hour walk, and revived by cafes con leche and croissants, we toured this centuries old place of contemplation and Benedictine devotion, and attempted to imagine the lives and spiritual pratices of the resident brothers ...
Souls stirred, that afternoon we walked, followed the yellow arrows that mark the length of the Camino, along country paths, across farmers´ fields, through tiny villages. It was very hot and we were out of water, and we wondered in frustration if we had somehow lost the trail or if John Brierly´s guidebook (which had been excellent to this point) had suddenly failed us. Walking up yet another hill, sprayed in red lettering on the pavement was the question, ¨What is Your Santiago?¨
We finally arrived, late, hot and tired in Sarria. After finding a place to stay (all the albergues were full), with tears over our dinners of Ensalada Mixta, Allison told me about the ¨Ah, ha¨ she had had late that afternoon when she was struggling to continue walking.
She had realized that her Santiago, her soul truth, was that she needed to stop walking, to rest, to take care of herself. Later in the hotel room, we both cried, realizing that our walking together needed to come to an end. We brainstormed possibilities (because that´s what we do, including the possibility of us both quitting and going to Majorca to lie on the beach for a week), but in the end, we decided that it is impotçrtant that we both meet our needs for this time.
So ... Allison has stopped walking and I have continued. Together we walked 417 km. For the past two days I have walked without her (49 km), but not alone, as the Camino is filled with pilgrims, many who have just strarted in Sarria. She has taken a bus each day and has gone ahead to find a place for us to stay.
Three more days , 69 km, and we will be in Santiago.
The walking is good for my soul.
The resting is good for Allison.
Together, in our own ways, we will complete our Caminos de Santiago.
After a 3 hour walk, and revived by cafes con leche and croissants, we toured this centuries old place of contemplation and Benedictine devotion, and attempted to imagine the lives and spiritual pratices of the resident brothers ...
Souls stirred, that afternoon we walked, followed the yellow arrows that mark the length of the Camino, along country paths, across farmers´ fields, through tiny villages. It was very hot and we were out of water, and we wondered in frustration if we had somehow lost the trail or if John Brierly´s guidebook (which had been excellent to this point) had suddenly failed us. Walking up yet another hill, sprayed in red lettering on the pavement was the question, ¨What is Your Santiago?¨
We finally arrived, late, hot and tired in Sarria. After finding a place to stay (all the albergues were full), with tears over our dinners of Ensalada Mixta, Allison told me about the ¨Ah, ha¨ she had had late that afternoon when she was struggling to continue walking.
She had realized that her Santiago, her soul truth, was that she needed to stop walking, to rest, to take care of herself. Later in the hotel room, we both cried, realizing that our walking together needed to come to an end. We brainstormed possibilities (because that´s what we do, including the possibility of us both quitting and going to Majorca to lie on the beach for a week), but in the end, we decided that it is impotçrtant that we both meet our needs for this time.
So ... Allison has stopped walking and I have continued. Together we walked 417 km. For the past two days I have walked without her (49 km), but not alone, as the Camino is filled with pilgrims, many who have just strarted in Sarria. She has taken a bus each day and has gone ahead to find a place for us to stay.
Three more days , 69 km, and we will be in Santiago.
The walking is good for my soul.
The resting is good for Allison.
Together, in our own ways, we will complete our Caminos de Santiago.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Signs and Guides
There are so many things to be grateful for on this path. So many in each day.
A few days ago after 28 blistering kilometres along a busy highway, transport trucks blowing by, and busy people going somewhere important in a hurry, we sat on an ancient stone wall in a wee town to consult.
My feet told me stop. My hot head told me keep going 1.2 more kilometres to our 'destination'. Into this delerious haze and out of the long hot rays of the late afternoon sun came first a voice, then a gesture waving us back, then a person.
A lovely French pilgrim fellow we had had a meal with two days earlier saw us pass by, was worried for us, and came out of the place he was staying to make sure we went no further.
Saved yet again.
Sometimes saying thank you isn't enough, but it is all I have.
So I will say it as often as I can.
A few days ago after 28 blistering kilometres along a busy highway, transport trucks blowing by, and busy people going somewhere important in a hurry, we sat on an ancient stone wall in a wee town to consult.
My feet told me stop. My hot head told me keep going 1.2 more kilometres to our 'destination'. Into this delerious haze and out of the long hot rays of the late afternoon sun came first a voice, then a gesture waving us back, then a person.
A lovely French pilgrim fellow we had had a meal with two days earlier saw us pass by, was worried for us, and came out of the place he was staying to make sure we went no further.
Saved yet again.
Sometimes saying thank you isn't enough, but it is all I have.
So I will say it as often as I can.
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
From one extreme to another
I have lost track of what day it is, except that Santiago in getting closer and I am getting tireder. We have arrived safely and sun coloured in Sarria. This is the place a ton of people begin their walk becasue it is about 100 km from here to Santiago and so it is the last place to begin and still 'qualify' for a Compostella - the certificate which says "You did it!"
Within the space of a night the weather switched from long johns to shorts and t-shirt. This is good and a great relifef from the bone chilling cold and damp. Now we are having to figure out our sun protection instead of keeping everything dry. It has been in the low thirties for 3 days now.
There are many things on the walk which are outside of our control and this is a part of the pilgrimage for sure. We don't know where we will eat, where we will sleep, or where we will fnd rest stops along the way. We assume we need to carry water for the whole day in case the fountains and wells are dry or not drinkable. All this is challenging and tiring in its way, but manageable with a little effort and planning. It is amazing how good a stale-ish hunk of bread tastes when hungry, and warm-ish water finishes the meal nicely!
However; one of the hardest things to manage is knowing that there will likely not be a toilet in the moments when we may need one most.
Yesterday in a rather desparate moment, knowing the next town was too far to be of help, I quickly jumped into a ditch on the side of the dirt track with a quick look to make sure no one was coming.
The stinging pain on my calves told me this may not have been a good choice. Turned out to be a patch of thorny brambles and stinging nettle. The welts on my legs and forearms have calmed, the numbness in one stung finger is finished. Learning: no matter how desperate - look before I leap.
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Learning to rest ...
Going slow and getting stronger ... Hmmm?
For many many days, we walked despite the COLD and WET (and Colds and Coughs). In Rabanal, despite the urge to persvere, we decided to rest. We took a full day off, stayed at a hotel and slept and slept, and rested our bruised and battered feet from the previous day´s 30 km walk. It was hard to stop, but it was a good decision.
Today we walked again, 26 km, and the sun broke through the clouds and warmed us ... but not before we had climbed to the highest point on the Camino at 1560 m, rose through verdant green hills, ice fog, sleet and rain (ice clinging to hillsides covered in purple heather), and then walked into foggy forlorn Foncebadon to find one of the most welcoming Albergues we have encountered. A group of hospitaleros offering gracious and welcoming hospitality with a strong undercurrent of world spirituality to unite the people of the nations. Strong hot coffee, biscuits, granola, and fruit all available for a donativo. The small living area with a warm wood fire was filled with 35-40 shivering pilgrims laughing and smiling, glad to get in out of the 1 degree cold outside, and to experience such gracious warmth.
Later this same day we encountered a modern day Knight Templar, descended down the mountains on rock covered pathways, and walked amidst hills covered with wild lavender and hibiscus, and passed by an ancient chestnut grove.
The Rest of yesterday helped us soak up the gentle and amazing glory of today.
Thanks for reading - we are having an amazing time, and appreciate your comments and support!
Love,
For many many days, we walked despite the COLD and WET (and Colds and Coughs). In Rabanal, despite the urge to persvere, we decided to rest. We took a full day off, stayed at a hotel and slept and slept, and rested our bruised and battered feet from the previous day´s 30 km walk. It was hard to stop, but it was a good decision.
Today we walked again, 26 km, and the sun broke through the clouds and warmed us ... but not before we had climbed to the highest point on the Camino at 1560 m, rose through verdant green hills, ice fog, sleet and rain (ice clinging to hillsides covered in purple heather), and then walked into foggy forlorn Foncebadon to find one of the most welcoming Albergues we have encountered. A group of hospitaleros offering gracious and welcoming hospitality with a strong undercurrent of world spirituality to unite the people of the nations. Strong hot coffee, biscuits, granola, and fruit all available for a donativo. The small living area with a warm wood fire was filled with 35-40 shivering pilgrims laughing and smiling, glad to get in out of the 1 degree cold outside, and to experience such gracious warmth.
Later this same day we encountered a modern day Knight Templar, descended down the mountains on rock covered pathways, and walked amidst hills covered with wild lavender and hibiscus, and passed by an ancient chestnut grove.
The Rest of yesterday helped us soak up the gentle and amazing glory of today.
Thanks for reading - we are having an amazing time, and appreciate your comments and support!
Love,
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Coffee with Jesus
It went like this:
rain all day
misty beautiful hills
pathway washed out
pick our way carefully over streams of rain, stones, rocks, sand....oh my,
gore tex couldn´t keep out the wet,
kilometre 23 sat under an Holm Oak on the ground
sighed over peanuts
crested the mountain,
very broken down lone casa in view -
red tile roof and mud brick walls mostly caved in,
closer, closer, closer
man emerges from the darkness of the open doorway -
looks like poster of Jesus -
Invites us in,
offers coffee, hot -
and figs and dates and raisins and nuts and biscuits and toasts and juice
and a true heart -
"Canada! Welcome!
This is your house."
I drank the good hot coffee, cried.
Only six more kilometers.
made possible by coffee with Jesus.
500 meters later:
a Shepherd,
and 100 sheep and lambs,
and a few dogs, pass by.
Perhaps there were only 99, I didn't have time to count.
Yes - Jesus and a shepherd all on the same wet misty hillside.
Buen Camino.
rain all day
misty beautiful hills
pathway washed out
pick our way carefully over streams of rain, stones, rocks, sand....oh my,
gore tex couldn´t keep out the wet,
kilometre 23 sat under an Holm Oak on the ground
sighed over peanuts
crested the mountain,
very broken down lone casa in view -
red tile roof and mud brick walls mostly caved in,
closer, closer, closer
man emerges from the darkness of the open doorway -
looks like poster of Jesus -
Invites us in,
offers coffee, hot -
and figs and dates and raisins and nuts and biscuits and toasts and juice
and a true heart -
"Canada! Welcome!
This is your house."
I drank the good hot coffee, cried.
Only six more kilometers.
made possible by coffee with Jesus.
500 meters later:
a Shepherd,
and 100 sheep and lambs,
and a few dogs, pass by.
Perhaps there were only 99, I didn't have time to count.
Yes - Jesus and a shepherd all on the same wet misty hillside.
Buen Camino.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Villar de Mazariff
Yesterday we left the brilliant morning sunshine of Burgos, boarded a bus and travelled into overcast skies that became darker and darker as we approached Leon. As we left the Estacion de Autobuses after arriving in Leon, it began to rain and continued after we had found a room as the Hostal Orejas, ate a late lunch of ciabata, cheese, olives and spinach, and then went out on the town for needed supplies.
We successfully bought warm tights for Allison, a pair of hiking pants for Diane (I had brought only one pair of pants thinking it would be warm enough most days to walk in shorts!), stamps for postcards, throat lozenges (both of us have had colds and coughs but we´re almost all better now ...), toured the old town and Cathedral, and then ran through town to find the Santa Maria de Carbajalas Convent to attend a Benedictine Nuns sung evening vespers service that was like stepping back in time some 500 to 600 years. Hauntingly beautiful and our first experience of a Spanish mass.
Today, after spending time and money yesterday looking for warm clothes, the morning cold turned to warmth and sunshine as we walked 24 km across the meseta.
We may find more cold weather yet ... In two days we will walk over the highest point in the Camino at 1500 m, and later we have chilly Galicia to look forward to.
Did we mention that it has so far been the COLDEST May in 100 years in Spain!
We are glad to be walking again; after only one day off it felt like we had taken a long break from the open skies and paths of the Camino.
Looking forward to our first longer day tomorrow when we will walk 30 km heading to Astorga.
a Dios,
We successfully bought warm tights for Allison, a pair of hiking pants for Diane (I had brought only one pair of pants thinking it would be warm enough most days to walk in shorts!), stamps for postcards, throat lozenges (both of us have had colds and coughs but we´re almost all better now ...), toured the old town and Cathedral, and then ran through town to find the Santa Maria de Carbajalas Convent to attend a Benedictine Nuns sung evening vespers service that was like stepping back in time some 500 to 600 years. Hauntingly beautiful and our first experience of a Spanish mass.
Today, after spending time and money yesterday looking for warm clothes, the morning cold turned to warmth and sunshine as we walked 24 km across the meseta.
We may find more cold weather yet ... In two days we will walk over the highest point in the Camino at 1500 m, and later we have chilly Galicia to look forward to.
Did we mention that it has so far been the COLDEST May in 100 years in Spain!
We are glad to be walking again; after only one day off it felt like we had taken a long break from the open skies and paths of the Camino.
Looking forward to our first longer day tomorrow when we will walk 30 km heading to Astorga.
a Dios,
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Burgos
We are in Burgos. After walking 20 km today, in 13 degree weather with a battering west wind that at times felt like it would knock us off our feet, and the last 8 km on the hard paved streets and tiled sidewalks of the city´s suburbs, we arrived in the old town centre of this city of 175,000.
Today we left behind many friends we have made along the way; tomorrow we will bus ahead to Leon so that we can reach Santiago by May 23 or 24 to have a few days rest and time to explore the city before we leave there on the 27th: Anni and Jean-Luc from France who we found ourselves with in the same place time and time again, and with whom we shared many meals and wonderful and strange french-english conversation with lots of laughs and talking with our hands and faces, Uta and HannahLaura from Germany, Filiz from Turkey, Agnes from Jamaica/Switzerland, Horst and Manfried from Germany, Charlotte from South Africa/Germany, and Mary from near Seattle who we met and ate with almost every day for the past week.
Two days ago we spent the afternoon in the small lobby of a beautiful 14th century refurbished hotel in Villanfranca trying to stay warm with cafe con leches and, a brandy while the wind blew and the rain poured down outside! We stayed in the unheated pilgrims´ albergue at the rear of this luxury hotel. We shared the afternoon and had wonderful far-reaching conversation about gardening and Obama, obesity and good nutrition, world religions and politics with Charlotte (67, originally from South Africa and now living in Germany), and Filiz (35 from Turkey, who we discovered was passionate about permaculture, the art of hosting, sustainability, and who has travelled extensively and has attended workshops with Margaret Wheatley and Christina Baldwin!)
And today, after walking a total of 220 km, we are in Burgos. This afternoon we visited the enormous and beautiful Catedral de Burgos, a world heritage site; ornate, filled with story and art, and 21 chapels ...
The story of the origin of our species yesterday in Atapuerca where they have discovered the oldest human remains in Europe - 1,000,000 years old, the history and telling of the Christian story in Burgos today, and yesterday, and again today, we met two men from Canada, one from Canmore whose close friends have been encouraging him to come to Naramata Centre for years, and the other from Toronto; both have gone on birding trips with Dick Cannings, from Naramata. It is an incredibly large and small world.
On the Camino we have encountered and walked spontaneous spiral labyrinths, made by pilgrims from stones. Our lives spiral in tight and out again.
And yes seester and brothers, mom is with me and I am thinking of her and dad most days. I made a special journal to take with me on the Camino, and I have a picture of mom with me. She is in my heart, especially today on mother´s day.
Small children and almost ALL of the more than 100 runners in a 10 km run who passed us today called out Buen Camino, and touched our outreached hands as they went by.
It is good luck to touch a Peregrino, especially one who is lost.
A Dios ...
Today we left behind many friends we have made along the way; tomorrow we will bus ahead to Leon so that we can reach Santiago by May 23 or 24 to have a few days rest and time to explore the city before we leave there on the 27th: Anni and Jean-Luc from France who we found ourselves with in the same place time and time again, and with whom we shared many meals and wonderful and strange french-english conversation with lots of laughs and talking with our hands and faces, Uta and HannahLaura from Germany, Filiz from Turkey, Agnes from Jamaica/Switzerland, Horst and Manfried from Germany, Charlotte from South Africa/Germany, and Mary from near Seattle who we met and ate with almost every day for the past week.
Two days ago we spent the afternoon in the small lobby of a beautiful 14th century refurbished hotel in Villanfranca trying to stay warm with cafe con leches and, a brandy while the wind blew and the rain poured down outside! We stayed in the unheated pilgrims´ albergue at the rear of this luxury hotel. We shared the afternoon and had wonderful far-reaching conversation about gardening and Obama, obesity and good nutrition, world religions and politics with Charlotte (67, originally from South Africa and now living in Germany), and Filiz (35 from Turkey, who we discovered was passionate about permaculture, the art of hosting, sustainability, and who has travelled extensively and has attended workshops with Margaret Wheatley and Christina Baldwin!)
And today, after walking a total of 220 km, we are in Burgos. This afternoon we visited the enormous and beautiful Catedral de Burgos, a world heritage site; ornate, filled with story and art, and 21 chapels ...
The story of the origin of our species yesterday in Atapuerca where they have discovered the oldest human remains in Europe - 1,000,000 years old, the history and telling of the Christian story in Burgos today, and yesterday, and again today, we met two men from Canada, one from Canmore whose close friends have been encouraging him to come to Naramata Centre for years, and the other from Toronto; both have gone on birding trips with Dick Cannings, from Naramata. It is an incredibly large and small world.
On the Camino we have encountered and walked spontaneous spiral labyrinths, made by pilgrims from stones. Our lives spiral in tight and out again.
And yes seester and brothers, mom is with me and I am thinking of her and dad most days. I made a special journal to take with me on the Camino, and I have a picture of mom with me. She is in my heart, especially today on mother´s day.
Small children and almost ALL of the more than 100 runners in a 10 km run who passed us today called out Buen Camino, and touched our outreached hands as they went by.
It is good luck to touch a Peregrino, especially one who is lost.
A Dios ...
Saturday, May 8, 2010
hard days and more
some days are hard days.
some days are soft days.
the day before yesterday was a hard one for me. In every way it was a challenge - physically, mentally, emotionally, spiritually.
Physically I was struggling with a cold in my nose, and the cold in the weather, plus my leg muscles seized up after only about 10 kilometers. Every step was excruciating.
Mentally I was finding it hard to just stay in the present and I kept on hoping that the destination place would be around the next corner - it finally was, but after about a hundred corners it seemed.
Emotionally I felt exhausted by the effort of communicating.
Spriritually I persisted in resisting offers of help from Diane.
I was stuck in a frame of mind that was saying to myself:
"You have to do this yourself. Everyone has hard days - get over yourself. Other people need help, but you have to do this on your own."
After Diane asked, and encouraged, and finally demanded that I stop and figure out what was happening I began to be able to quiet those voices and receive her help.
She ended up carrying my pack and hers for about 4 kilometers to our final destination. I could not have walked any further with it myself, and I hobbled those final steps to the albergue.
That night we took a private room in a small albergue instead of a group room.
The next day was a soft day. Gentle walking, gentle hills, gentle rain, still as cold but somehow more bearable. But most of all I was gentle with myself.
Some lessons have to be learned over and over and over - at least for me. Perhaps for you?
We have arrived in a beautiful town today called Atapuerca. You can find it on a map! It is a Unesco World Heritage site.
some days are soft days.
the day before yesterday was a hard one for me. In every way it was a challenge - physically, mentally, emotionally, spiritually.
Physically I was struggling with a cold in my nose, and the cold in the weather, plus my leg muscles seized up after only about 10 kilometers. Every step was excruciating.
Mentally I was finding it hard to just stay in the present and I kept on hoping that the destination place would be around the next corner - it finally was, but after about a hundred corners it seemed.
Emotionally I felt exhausted by the effort of communicating.
Spriritually I persisted in resisting offers of help from Diane.
I was stuck in a frame of mind that was saying to myself:
"You have to do this yourself. Everyone has hard days - get over yourself. Other people need help, but you have to do this on your own."
After Diane asked, and encouraged, and finally demanded that I stop and figure out what was happening I began to be able to quiet those voices and receive her help.
She ended up carrying my pack and hers for about 4 kilometers to our final destination. I could not have walked any further with it myself, and I hobbled those final steps to the albergue.
That night we took a private room in a small albergue instead of a group room.
The next day was a soft day. Gentle walking, gentle hills, gentle rain, still as cold but somehow more bearable. But most of all I was gentle with myself.
Some lessons have to be learned over and over and over - at least for me. Perhaps for you?
We have arrived in a beautiful town today called Atapuerca. You can find it on a map! It is a Unesco World Heritage site.
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Cold fingers and good hospitality
We had a shorter walk today, about 16 km, and tonight are staying in another beautiful albergue, this one operated by volunteers of the Spanish Confraternity of Santiago which has been offering hospitality to pilgrims in Santa Domingo de la Calzada ( in La Rioja - one of Spain´s famous wine regions) for more than 900 years. Imagine that kind of history, and enduring tradition of offering welcome and warmth!
The Albergue hosts 83 people each night, there are 20 in our room, and despite the close quarters, I am developing an ability to feel comfortable sharing my sleeping space with people with similar intentions and trust, from all over the world. There is a commonality we share in this trusting one another, with space, with belongings, and with our well-being. There is conversation over shared meals, and along the way, about how one another is doing, what ailments each might be enduring, and occasionally, when a deeper level of connection is created through attentive listening, a sharing of hopes and dreams for the Camino and sometimes for life. This happens more often than not, when there can be enough understanding of common language to have a conversation at that level.
At other times, it is more than enough to share a piece of chocolate, or sign language about the bracing cold which continued today, or to teach one another the expletives in our respective languages for it´s soooooooooo ***!!!&%$**%&=?? COLDDDDD. As we passed over a high plateau before coming down into Santa Domingo, wearing several layers and almost all of the clothes we brought with us, our fingers were numb. We were glad to see the city below as we crested the last hill.
Later this afternoon, we hope to find a store to buy gloves!
This is a good thing we are doing. As we say our prayer together to begin each morning we give thanks for the day and all that has led us here, and then do a high five tap tap tap on each others´walking poles, and sometimes a little dance step or two to help keep warm.
Cheers!
The Albergue hosts 83 people each night, there are 20 in our room, and despite the close quarters, I am developing an ability to feel comfortable sharing my sleeping space with people with similar intentions and trust, from all over the world. There is a commonality we share in this trusting one another, with space, with belongings, and with our well-being. There is conversation over shared meals, and along the way, about how one another is doing, what ailments each might be enduring, and occasionally, when a deeper level of connection is created through attentive listening, a sharing of hopes and dreams for the Camino and sometimes for life. This happens more often than not, when there can be enough understanding of common language to have a conversation at that level.
At other times, it is more than enough to share a piece of chocolate, or sign language about the bracing cold which continued today, or to teach one another the expletives in our respective languages for it´s soooooooooo ***!!!&%$**%&=?? COLDDDDD. As we passed over a high plateau before coming down into Santa Domingo, wearing several layers and almost all of the clothes we brought with us, our fingers were numb. We were glad to see the city below as we crested the last hill.
Later this afternoon, we hope to find a store to buy gloves!
This is a good thing we are doing. As we say our prayer together to begin each morning we give thanks for the day and all that has led us here, and then do a high five tap tap tap on each others´walking poles, and sometimes a little dance step or two to help keep warm.
Cheers!
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Spring or Winter in Spain?
When we stopped in Najera for lunch today at a bar (Spanish for a place that serves light simple food - bocadillas = sandwiches and other mouth watering snacks, alcohol and cafe con leche), the television news showed images of snow and driving winds of up to 95 km/hr in parts of Spain today. Thankfully the snow is many days´ journey yet to the west, BUT we did experience VERY COLD weather today, about 4-6 degrees Celsius and rain and sleet most of the day, along with very strong winds that led to a strong lean to the right and sore necks to protect our faces and fingers from the numbing cold.
Oh well ... just another wonderful day on the Camino.
Tonight we are in Azofra at a new, purpose built Albergue with only two to a room (6 euros each); we were fortunate to get here in time to get the 2nd last room after about 6 hours of walking (23 km).
We continue to be well. The blisters are healing and no injuries.
Each day we encounter many of the same people who are keeping a similar pace to us, and build upon these friendships (and work on our multilingualism!) and, as we move ahead, meet new folks every day.
The accommodations are busy, and the comidas de peregrinos (pilgrim meals at local restaurants and bars) serve generous and tasty portions.
We are very grateful for the support of family and friends, and internet friends who we have yet to meet.
The cafe con leches and croissants chocolate are wonderful and help us to keep putting one foot in front of the other, as do the daily graces we encounter along the way.
Blessings,
Oh well ... just another wonderful day on the Camino.
Tonight we are in Azofra at a new, purpose built Albergue with only two to a room (6 euros each); we were fortunate to get here in time to get the 2nd last room after about 6 hours of walking (23 km).
We continue to be well. The blisters are healing and no injuries.
Each day we encounter many of the same people who are keeping a similar pace to us, and build upon these friendships (and work on our multilingualism!) and, as we move ahead, meet new folks every day.
The accommodations are busy, and the comidas de peregrinos (pilgrim meals at local restaurants and bars) serve generous and tasty portions.
We are very grateful for the support of family and friends, and internet friends who we have yet to meet.
The cafe con leches and croissants chocolate are wonderful and help us to keep putting one foot in front of the other, as do the daily graces we encounter along the way.
Blessings,
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Viana and all is well ...
This is and will be one of the most amazing things I will do in my life.
We are well. Sore feet and many blisters each. Four days of walking so far (about 80 km) and we are finding our pace.
Spain is so beautiful, lush green mixed farmlands of wheat, barley and oats, grapes and olives, and lavender, rosemary and thyme growing wild, beautiful mountains, and lots of hills to climb and descend along the way.
We have met people from a dozen different countries, enjoyed fantastic dinners, and simple lunches of bread, cheese and olives, and last night visited an amazing 10th century church in Los Arcos. Two days ago it was 30 º Celsius, and today it was 10º. Rain and cold temperatures are forecast for the next two days. We are prepared and will walk, rain or shine.
The scale here is human. Medieval villages with little traffic, all one needs is within walking distance. The sense of centuries of history is something I am just beginning to comprehend. A scale of time so unfamiliar for someone from Canada.
It is wonderful to walk 6-8 hours each day, to have every step be new - villages, countryside, people and sites to encounter.
Late this afternoon, after a medicinal cerveza - it´s said to be cleansing after walking - really! - we discovered an inspiring and beautiful photography exhibit, with images and prayers from the Camino. Blessings around every corner.
We are moving into a rhythm and settling into this precious time of pilgrimage and journey to Spirit and self. Fellow walkers and pilgrims are welcoming and kind.
We share a common humanity -seeking meaning and discovering community along the way.
Blessings a todos!
We are well. Sore feet and many blisters each. Four days of walking so far (about 80 km) and we are finding our pace.
Spain is so beautiful, lush green mixed farmlands of wheat, barley and oats, grapes and olives, and lavender, rosemary and thyme growing wild, beautiful mountains, and lots of hills to climb and descend along the way.
We have met people from a dozen different countries, enjoyed fantastic dinners, and simple lunches of bread, cheese and olives, and last night visited an amazing 10th century church in Los Arcos. Two days ago it was 30 º Celsius, and today it was 10º. Rain and cold temperatures are forecast for the next two days. We are prepared and will walk, rain or shine.
The scale here is human. Medieval villages with little traffic, all one needs is within walking distance. The sense of centuries of history is something I am just beginning to comprehend. A scale of time so unfamiliar for someone from Canada.
It is wonderful to walk 6-8 hours each day, to have every step be new - villages, countryside, people and sites to encounter.
Late this afternoon, after a medicinal cerveza - it´s said to be cleansing after walking - really! - we discovered an inspiring and beautiful photography exhibit, with images and prayers from the Camino. Blessings around every corner.
We are moving into a rhythm and settling into this precious time of pilgrimage and journey to Spirit and self. Fellow walkers and pilgrims are welcoming and kind.
We share a common humanity -seeking meaning and discovering community along the way.
Blessings a todos!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
